Salt System newbie

[CarlD]

Great!

Not sure about the restricted status issue...There is a subscription fee for full access, I believe....check the various stickies in the forums. Plus there's a probation period. We have had horrendous problems with hackers since pool owners are seen as fat pigeons to be plucked by the crooks.

[waste]

BTDG, welcome to the forum!

Sounds like you already know how things work here

[BigTallGuy]

O.K. while I am waiting in the holding pattern, I hope you all don't mind if I ping you with a bunch of dumb questions (now you now how I got my screen name LOL). One of my biggest questions is with backwashing a salt system that has appoximately 3300 ppm of Morton's finest pool salt into my backyard. Will I kill the grass and all other related vegetation? I am already in the eternal dog house (that was 5 years ago) for wiping out momma's rose bushes with the old chlorine system so please advise. I can't believe they can't develop a strain of rose bushes that will survive high concentrations of pool shock.

[BigTallGuy]

O.K. while everyone is running down to the nursery to find out if salt water will kill the grass, here is Dumb Question number two. I was advised to run the SWG for at least 8-12 hours per day. The recommended procedure was to run the system from 9:00 p.m. to 9:00 a.m. for two reasons, 1, because electricity is reportedly cheaper at night, and 2, there is no sun light and the chlorine levels will build up faster and not deplete out from the UV rays. I am currently running my system for 8 hours a day, starting at 8:00 p.m. until 4:00 a.m.

Now According to the Owner’s manual, the SWG does not measure the chlorine level of the water, it simply continues to produce the chlorine as long as the unit is operating. So my dumb question is what chlorine levels should I be looking for if I test first thing in the morning, or should I wait and see what the chlorine levels are at say around sunset? Obviously, the optimum set up is to run the pump and the system for the least amount of time to cut down on overall operating costs and get the longest life out of the SWG elements. Would splitting the cycle to 4 hrs on 8 hours off help?

[CarlD]

1) Get yourself a back wash hose and run it to a drain! Get the GOOD stuff--it's like a thick, transparent blue poly and goes on a 2" fitting. Not the cheapo opaque vinyl stuff that goes on 1.5". That solves your problem. I run about 60 ' and have a reel to wind it in on.

2) I don't know the exact level but it will be lower than the Best Guess table. Your manual may have suggested levels for each CYA level. Until you know for SURE, I'd suggest you keep FC at the MINIMUM level for your level of CYA--check the Best Guess table. It's possible to run at lower levels because the chlorine addition is more constant so even if there's a sudden drop due to a bird pooping in it, your SWG will compensate by keeping the level of chlorine constant anyway--or that's the theory....I'll let the experts kick in from here...

[waste]

Far from and expert, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night () - as you can't do an overnight chlorine loss, check your cl in the evening (before the pump? SWCG kicks on) to see if you are still maintaining adequate fc levels after a day of sun and use.

No one is born knowing this stuff, so no question is a dumb one, except the one unasked!

[CarlD]

No one is born knowing this stuff, so no question is a dumb one, except the one unasked!

Or the one repeatedly asked with hopes of getting a different answer!

[BigTallGuy]

Oh yeah, I have made millions asking dumb questions. The problem is, I unfortunately ask them too late and it has cost me those same millions. So I have resigned myself to know my place in life as the lowest level of the food chain, dwelling down in the pond scum and looking up at catfish bellys every morning just to see the sunshine. So if my questions become too stooopid, a shoe to the back of the head usually works. Hey thanks for listening to me. It is truly a pleasure to be here.

Dumb question number three, are those small hand held Salt Level checkers Worth their (oh no here it comes) SALT? (bad I know). I see these things on the internet for $12-$15 all the way up to $85-$100 USD. All I know is, every pool store I go to gives me a different salt reading. I am bouncing the idea around in my over impulsive feeble brain to buy my own. But logic tells me that the "LOW SALT" light is off on the unit so save yer Money.

What say you guys?

[BigTallGuy]

Progressing on in my quest to become the fastest pool expert on the planet, my CYA level is reported to be between 40 and 50. The Pool Store "experts" want me to go to 60-80 because of the salt system. They probably want to sell me more CYA.

Everything I am reading says any CYA level above 50 is waste. From experience, I know that when my CYA levels were "elevated" up over 100, I had constant complaints of eyes burning. So I am extremely leery of adding any more CYA.

Dumb question number 4 is (drum rolllllllllllll):

What do you recommend for a CYA level for a vinyl lined AG salt system pool, and Why?

(Is that two questions)?

[AnnaK]

It's my understanding that the CYA level in SWCG systems is best kept at 60-70 ppm. The 'why' is something Chem Geek will need to address.