testing results

[smallpooldad]

I think I wrote drain it, if 60 is problematic - "but if you are not getting algae at a CyA of 60 it is your choice." If not I agree leave it alone. I think and agree that the way I wrote it was confusing.

Whatever, 60 is OK if there are no problems. At 45 CYA, way south of Louisiana, in Hawaii, we would also loose very little chlorine. It is just at 45 you are carrying a little more insurance as regards algae. But living on the edge is so much more exciting. Lower Cya means your chlorine is disinfecting more, it is as simple as that.

After 35 the difference in loss of chlorine is minimal in my experience but that seems to vary from geographic location and how much debris falls into the pool on a daily basis. Debris free and you should not loose too much chlorine at the lower CYA number.

Another advantage of lower CyA is that if you did have to shock with chlorine you would need less, see the "Best Guess" table, so why drive at 80 mph when you can get there at 30 mph, unless of course lower CyA truely does use up more chlorine, in your case, and indeed that might be - so then there would be no advantage at all.

If you are going for 60 CyA then I agree with CarlD that you should try to find the Optimum chlorine point where you have no trouble 5-10 ppm. Lowering the CyA lets you lower the Chlorine number somewhat. As he said look at the "Best Guess" table. Personally I prefer lower CyA (35) and lower chlorine(4-6) but to each their own. Ideally try to keep the CyA no higher than 80, or stretching 100.

Sadly as you are using pucks you will most probably have to drain it some if you wish to maintain 60 and not go above, unless you have a lot of kids jumping in and out of the pool doing it for you. If the CYA is allowed to go higher you will need to raise the FC amount. If you do drain at the end of you season (we have no seasons) you might want to consider starting at 35 and letting it float up to 60.

I am not sure how accurate the Wal-Mart kit is, others may wish to comment. If they state it is not accurate you may wish to get a Taylor Test Kit, for the added assurance you have the right numbers.

What you are looking for is a clear pool with a glassy surface, like the magazine pictures. It seems that you are pumping for the correct amount of hours based on your pool size assuming a correct sized pump and filter. If it is not clear look to either a lower CyA, assuming the chlorine loss is not too great or expensive, or a raise to a higher chlorine level.