testing results

[minermom]

I have a quick question, and I've tried looking at old posts, but I just end up getting confused.
My test results today were (Wal-Mart kit)
PH - 7.2
CL- above 5 (but not much)
ALK - 140
CYA - 60
I know my ph is a little low, and my alk. is a little high. The pool is clear, so is enough to worry about? And is there anything that raises the ph and lowers Alk. (Borax?)
Thanks in advance for any help.
Kerrie

[waterbear]

I know my ph is a little low, and my alk. is a little high. The pool is clear, so is enough to worry about?
Your pH is fine and will rise on it's own (Unless you are using trichlor).

And is there anything that raises the ph and lowers Alk. (Borax?)
Thanks in advance for any help.
Kerrie

Aeration will raise pH withouht having any impact on TA. So to lower your TA you would add acid to drop the pH to 7.2 then aerate the water to raise the pH without affedcting the TA. You would repeat this until the TA was where you wanted it.

[smallpooldad]

Few questions first so that I can help you:

1) Is your pool using a saltwater chlorine generator, if so what make, and model number?

2) If not do you use the BBB method (Liquid Bleach)? If so whose bleach? (Are you using Borax if so what is the ppm (parts per million). The best test strip for Boron is made by LaMotte.

3) If not do you use the BBB method do you use chlorine pucks?

4) How many gallons is your pool?

5) I believe the Wal-Mart Test kit, is liquid reagents, am I correct? ( For information: The best normal test kit, if you can afford it, is made by Taylor Industries).

6) What is the Alkalinity, pH, Calcium Hardness of your tap water?

7) Does your pool show any signs of iron staining, normally the walls are brownish?

8) Is your pool plaster, fiberglass, stainless, tiled, or a vinyl liner?

9) You did not mention the Calcium Hardness measurement. What is it?

10) How long has the water been in the pool without draining, in years?

11) What type of filter, sand, DE, cartridge, do you have and what size is it? How often is the filter media changed.

12) What size is your pump?

13) At what tempersture range do you normally operate the pool.

14) When was the last time you backwashed it, how often do you do this?

15) Does your pool get a lot of debris on a dailly basis

16) Do you have a pool cleaner/vac if so what type and does it run daily?

17) How many hours do you run your pump for?

18) Do you have a pool heater? Do you use it? If so how often?

While all this information is not absolutely needed it really helps in addressing your issues.

The ideal pH is normally considered 7.5 as that is the same as your eyes and if you have an iron or other metal staining problem it may help control that, 7.4 is actually slightly better for metal problems. One can go as high as 7.8 or as low as 7.2 on the pH, but I think you know that.

At present as Waterbear stated it is better to keep the pH between 7.0 and 7.2 and then aerate using a large fountain pump if you have one. Meaning a fountain spraying water back into your pool, to lower the alkalinity. If not and tap water has an alkalinity that is lower than say 120 or below, you could drain it down some as a last resort. This will be dependant on the results you need to acheive. Chlorine at 5 for the present is OK.

[minermom]

So, I'm REALLY new at this (as if it didn't show), here are some stats on my pool. (Up until this year I just went to the pool store and went by what they said to add...)
We have a 18 x 38 above ground doughboy with a six foot deep in, so vinyl liner.
At the first of the year I tried doing the BBB, and my numbers were always ok, but the adding of bleach was time consuming as I'm apt to work alot and not test everyday. I then decided to use pucks in the basket (Trichlor) and HTH shock (Calcium Hypo). This is when my ph dropped and the alkalinity rose a little. (I read somewhere on this site, that would happen with the pucks). I run the filter 5 hours in early am and 5 hours in the late evening, or if we are swimming.
The numbers from this morning are:
CL - over 5
PH - between 7.2 and 7.5 (my guess would be 7.3)
ALK - 120
I realize they're different from yesterday and this could be the Wal-Mart kit (bought last year) or operator error .
I'm inclined to leave it alone, what do ya'll think?
Kerrie

[waterbear]

If you are using trichlor pucks you want to run your TA on the high side. 100-120 is a good range. Be sure to keep an eye on your CYA as it will rise with the continued use of pucks and your pool will become overstabilzied. THAT is the main reason most people on here do no use pucks.

[minermom]

I will do that.
Thanks so much for all the help.
Kerrie

[smallpooldad]

pH of 7.3 ok
Alk 120 ok
FC 5 ok
CYA 60 ( too high go to 45 by draining down the pool 25%. This should keep you algae free but if you are not getting algae at a CyA of 60 it is your choice)

[CarlD]

pH of 7.3 ok
Alk 120 ok
FC 5 ok
CYA 60 ( too high go to 45 by draining down the pool 25%. This should keep you algae free but if you are not getting algae at a CyA of 60 it is your choice)

Don't waste your time draining your pool! I hate to say it, but SmallPoolDad is wrong on this one.

There's nothing wrong with a CYA of 60. You'll have to keep your regular FC in the 5-10ppm range , but that's fine. IF you keep it there, you'll use less chlorine this summer as it's been a real chlorine eater all around! If you keep it in that range you won't get algae.

Our "Best Guess" table is still a great way to stay safe and compensate for higher levels of CYA. aylad, one of my fellow monitors, NEVER runs her pool below a CYA of 60--she lives in Louisiana where it's hot and sunny and the chlorine disappears if you blink at "normal" CYA levels. So she runs a higher CYA, a higher normal residual level, and doesn't go through barrels of bleach keeping her pool clean.

Using the "Best Guess" table give you the correct equalibrium between CYA and chlorine residual levels.