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Thread: Pump/motor electrical question

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    Default Pump/motor electrical question

    I have a 1 HP Hayward Super II pump rated 115/230 volts, Amps 15/7.5. The power line from the timer to the pump motor is 230 Volts. The pump motor can be run at 115 volts or 230. How can I convert it to run 115 Volts, and will I save energy by doing this? Will I lose suction power? Pool is an inground 15X30 Oval gunite with plaster finish.
    Thanks, Tom

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    Poconos is offline SuperMod Emeritus Whizbang Spinner Poconos 4 stars Poconos 4 stars Poconos 4 stars Poconos 4 stars Poconos 4 stars Poconos 4 stars
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    Default Re: Pump/motor electrical question

    The motor speed is virtually the same at either voltage so the pump parameters won't change. However, motors run at a higher efficiency at higher operating voltages. Reason is the lower operating current at higher voltages. Lower current (amps) means lower 'I (amps) squared R (ohms)' losses (Current squared times Resistance = Watts) which is heat dissipated in the windings and the feed circuit due to the resistance of the copper wire. So...leave it at 230V.
    Al
    BTW: Welcome to the forum.

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    CarlD is offline SuperMod Emeritus Vortex Adjuster CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars
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    Default Re: Pump/motor electrical question

    Just to make it PERFECTLY clear:

    Motors that can run at either 115v or 230v usually run more efficiently and use less energy at 230v.

    230's a pain to wire and set up, and you probably need an electrician to do it. etc, etc...but in the end it's worth it.

    Your pump will probably last longer, too, because there's less resistance loss (which translates to heat) and runs cooler.
    Carl

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    Default Re: Pump/motor electrical question

    Thanks for the answers.

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    tenax is offline Registered+ Widget Weaver tenax 0
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    Default Re: Pump/motor electrical question

    ps- i switched from 115 to 230 last season. amazing how much cooler my pump is running..and yes, while i can dicker around with electrical. playing with a live breaker box (as i needed a new breaker and wire run) or a box in the dark , even if turned off, wasn't my cup of tea. i have good sleeps at night knowing it as done perfect.

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    Default Re: Pump/motor electrical question

    And to throw in a curve, you can also install a 3-phase, 220V motor like an Ikeric or the Pentair variable speed pumps. These are cool because they can be adjusted to run at many different speeds, not just high/low. At low speeds, these pumps are virtually silent. Even at high speed, my Ikeric is much quieter than the 2HP SuperPump it replaced.

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    mjs31 is offline Registered+ Thread Analyst mjs31 0
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    Default Re: Pump/motor electrical question

    Hi -

    I am also curious about this. I am going to be getting quotes from electricians shortly. I need to run a dedicted line for my pump, but would also like to run one for some extra outlets for a future deck. Should I have them run a 230 out there for the pump? I know I would then need to make sure I have a 115/230 pump, but I am wondering if this is doable from my breaker box or if they would have to do something else?

    Thanks everyone...

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    Default Re: Pump/motor electrical question

    Let me throw in another monkey wrench. According to my town (I haven't checked BOCA on this), the requirements for the pump power and for the alternative socket, are incompatible with each other!
    The pump has to be at least 5' from the pool, but with a cord no more than 3' long. That's 8'.
    The outlet cannot be closer than 10' to the pool.

    The electrician can tell you if the box will support 220. That usually means 2 breaker slots. It should also be ground-faulted. It's well-worth it.

    When I had the electrical work done for my pool, the porch 115v GFCI outlet met that requirement, but the 220v for the pump is located elsewhere. He ran conduit under the deck so burying it wasn't needed. I also had him run 240v 40amp line from the box to just inside the house where you'd break through. That way, if I ever go for a heat pump, most of the wiring is in place and I'll just need a hookup to the box, and break through the wall.
    Carl

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    Default Re: Pump/motor electrical question

    Quote Originally Posted by tphaggerty View Post
    And to throw in a curve, you can also install a 3-phase, 220V motor like an Ikeric or the Pentair variable speed pumps. These are cool because they can be adjusted to run at many different speeds, not just high/low. At low speeds, these pumps are virtually silent. Even at high speed, my Ikeric is much quieter than the 2HP SuperPump it replaced.
    How do you do that? Most residential areas do not have three phase power. Come to think of it I don't think I have ever seen a house with three phase power.

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    mjs31 is offline Registered+ Thread Analyst mjs31 0
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    Default Re: Pump/motor electrical question

    Quote Originally Posted by CarlD View Post
    Let me throw in another monkey wrench. According to my town (I haven't checked BOCA on this), the requirements for the pump power and for the alternative socket, are incompatible with each other!
    The pump has to be at least 5' from the pool, but with a cord no more than 3' long. That's 8'.
    The outlet cannot be closer than 10' to the pool.
    I was wondering about this also. Does this mean you have to have the pump 7 feet away from the pool? Kind of a strange situation. Since I am going to be calling electricians tomorrow I would love input on the best way to get electrical to the pump. Meaning the closest I can legally get it.

    I think I go 5' if I use a twist receptacle for the pump. Is this correct? How close can I get a standard GFCI 115v outlet? I would like it as close as possible due a future deck in that area.
    Last edited by mjs31; 05-20-2007 at 09:55 AM.

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