Pump/motor electrical question

[CarlD]

Just to make it PERFECTLY clear:

Motors that can run at either 115v or 230v usually run more efficiently and use less energy at 230v.

230's a pain to wire and set up, and you probably need an electrician to do it. etc, etc...but in the end it's worth it.

Your pump will probably last longer, too, because there's less resistance loss (which translates to heat) and runs cooler.

[tomdow2]

Thanks for the answers.

[tenax]

ps- i switched from 115 to 230 last season. amazing how much cooler my pump is running..and yes, while i can dicker around with electrical. playing with a live breaker box (as i needed a new breaker and wire run) or a box in the dark , even if turned off, wasn't my cup of tea. i have good sleeps at night knowing it as done perfect.

[tphaggerty]

And to throw in a curve, you can also install a 3-phase, 220V motor like an Ikeric or the Pentair variable speed pumps. These are cool because they can be adjusted to run at many different speeds, not just high/low. At low speeds, these pumps are virtually silent. Even at high speed, my Ikeric is much quieter than the 2HP SuperPump it replaced.

[mjs31]

Hi -

I am also curious about this. I am going to be getting quotes from electricians shortly. I need to run a dedicted line for my pump, but would also like to run one for some extra outlets for a future deck. Should I have them run a 230 out there for the pump? I know I would then need to make sure I have a 115/230 pump, but I am wondering if this is doable from my breaker box or if they would have to do something else?

Thanks everyone...

[CarlD]

Let me throw in another monkey wrench. According to my town (I haven't checked BOCA on this), the requirements for the pump power and for the alternative socket, are incompatible with each other!
The pump has to be at least 5' from the pool, but with a cord no more than 3' long. That's 8'.
The outlet cannot be closer than 10' to the pool.

The electrician can tell you if the box will support 220. That usually means 2 breaker slots. It should also be ground-faulted. It's well-worth it.

When I had the electrical work done for my pool, the porch 115v GFCI outlet met that requirement, but the 220v for the pump is located elsewhere. He ran conduit under the deck so burying it wasn't needed. I also had him run 240v 40amp line from the box to just inside the house where you'd break through. That way, if I ever go for a heat pump, most of the wiring is in place and I'll just need a hookup to the box, and break through the wall.

[mjs31]

Let me throw in another monkey wrench. According to my town (I haven't checked BOCA on this), the requirements for the pump power and for the alternative socket, are incompatible with each other!
The pump has to be at least 5' from the pool, but with a cord no more than 3' long. That's 8'.
The outlet cannot be closer than 10' to the pool.

I was wondering about this also. Does this mean you have to have the pump 7 feet away from the pool? Kind of a strange situation. Since I am going to be calling electricians tomorrow I would love input on the best way to get electrical to the pump. Meaning the closest I can legally get it.

I think I go 5' if I use a twist receptacle for the pump. Is this correct? How close can I get a standard GFCI 115v outlet? I would like it as close as possible due a future deck in that area.

[cleancloths]

And to throw in a curve, you can also install a 3-phase, 220V motor like an Ikeric or the Pentair variable speed pumps. These are cool because they can be adjusted to run at many different speeds, not just high/low. At low speeds, these pumps are virtually silent. Even at high speed, my Ikeric is much quieter than the 2HP SuperPump it replaced.

How do you do that? Most residential areas do not have three phase power. Come to think of it I don't think I have ever seen a house with three phase power.

[tphaggerty]

How do you do that? Most residential areas do not have three phase power. Come to think of it I don't think I have ever seen a house with three phase power.

The pump has a separate box that has an electronic 3 phase converter in it. The 3 "normal" 220v wires (2 hot & a grounded) get used/coverted to 3 hot wires in 3 phase. Of course, the motor is a 3 phase motor as well. The whole thing comes as a "system". The Pentair Intellipumps are based on the same prinicipal/engineering. One change is that you can't use a 220V GFI breaker anymore because the GFI always sees a differential to ground and pops.

The 220V single phase goes to the converter box, which changes it to 3-phase. Once it is 3 phase, you can control the motor speed easily by changing the cycle, anywhere from 0 (in theory) to 60Hz. All of this is done in a nice, pool ready package. The pump I have has 4 speed settings, but you can really only use 3 of them due to the controlling switch. The new models this year give you access to all 4 settings. I really only use 2 of the speeds - low speed for normal running (virtually silent) and "boost" for solar (runs at 55 hz, so about 90% of full speed for the pump). I have the "high" setting running at about 65% of full pump speed for when I want to get a little more circulation going (say after a party or heavy rain). According to the provided charts, low speed (as I have it set) uses about 1/4 of the electricity compared to high speed while providing about 1/2 of the flow.

The guy that installed my solar has a "real" job as a commercial power engineer (large backup generators and power systems for schools, mainly). He said the system was very similar, though much smaller, to commerical A/C and heating systems that he installs and inspects.

[cleancloths]

OK, I am very familiar with that setup for industrial equipment, had no idea anyone was making such a device for residential usage. How much does the "system" cost and how does that compare to the price of a normal pump.