I just found another potential problem, or at least a very good source for testing. A residential customer of ours with an indoor salt pool called and said his ladders and light were corroding, so I went to check it out with my service man. The ladders were so corroded that they were falling apart. His pool is full-tile and his original white grout lines are now black, his original blue tiles are now greenish. The light ring is black also. We went and checked his cartridge filters and they were black, caked with rust. The pump basket was also black. The ladder rails that are above water are rusting, as you'll see in the pictures, but nowhere near as bad as the underwater parts.
Outside the pool there is a slide, metal deck drains, metal exhaust vents, tile decking, tile safety grip coping and a flagstone deck section with grout. The slide posts showed no corrosion, but I think they are aluminum. One of the metal deck drains is showing some rust, one is just fine. the metal exhaust vents show no corrosion. The flagstone and tile deck sections show no corrosion.

We installed the SWG in May 2005. The pool was installed around 2000. Before the SWG came along there was no corrosion. We went on a service call in March of last year to clear up the pool, as it was cloudy. At that point, the generator had been turned all the way down. We had not had any complaint of corrosion, and did not actively look for it at this point. My service man turned it up to 30% and told the customer to keep checking the chlorine levels and to keep them high until the pool was clear again, then turn the SWG down. The customer has not brought in a water sample since, and while I was speaking with him today he did not know where his test kit was. When I looked at the SWG today, it was still set on 30%. The pool room had absolutely no chlorine smell and was not hard on my eyes. His kids use the pool almost every day and have never complained about anything.

Here are the results of my water test:
Chlorine - I used my FAS-DPD test kit. I filled the sample to 10ml, then added two scoops of powder. As the powder hit the water it turned bright pink, but then went back to clear. As I shook the sample, it would periodically turn to pink, but then back to clear. I'd seen this before so I added my R0871 and after 25 drops the sample had turned pink and stayed that way. I kept adding drops until I had done 110. Then I mixed 1 part pool water with 3 parts distilled water and it still took 100 drops in a 10 mL test, meaning a chlorine reading of somewhere between 55-100 ppm. I did an OTO test and the sample turned bright red.
pH - phenol red test was off the charts so I used my Hannah meter and got 8.4
TDS (Our city water is about 650ppm) - 2850
Salt - 3200 on the Aquarite machine and 3000 on my Taylor Kit
Alkalinity - 80
Calcium - 140
CYA - 0

It seems to me that this info coincides with what I already thought. Most SWG's create WAY too much chlorine for indoor pools. This excess chlorine causes corrosion. Since this corrosion ties in with the installation of the SWG, the SWG takes the blame.

I brought one of his ladders back to my shop so I could try to do some kind of test on it. I was thinking of setting up 2 buckets, one with high chlorine and one with high salt and setting each leg of the ladder (because they are evenly corroded at this point) in it's own bucket. I would take pictures before and after and compare the effects. I would also test the water every day or two and keep it balanced. I wish I had a way to test a third part so I could do high chlorine with CYA. Does anyone think this test would be worthwhile, and does anyone have any tips to make the test better?

If anyone can tell me how to post a picture, I will post a couple pics of the ladder.

Brad