Time to Take My Pool Back from Leslie's

[PoolDoc]

Having algae blow back into the pool is a problem. If the algae is DEAD, this indicates you have a filter problem. If the algae is ALIVE, you'd be better off vacuuming to waste.

Looked at your Pool Chart data.

If you want a clear pool on Aug 4, you probably should:

1. Vacuum the algae to waste;
2. Purchase and use a SINGLE dose of a locally available pool clarifier;
3. Open and check your filter for adequate sand, and for lumps and channels.
4. Report COMPLETE test results (do you have a K2006, or have one ordered?)

[pentachris]

If you want a clear pool on Aug 4, you probably should:

1. Vacuum the algae to waste;
2. Purchase and use a SINGLE dose of a locally available pool clarifier;
3. Open and check your filter for adequate sand, and for lumps and channels.
4. Report COMPLETE test results (do you have a K2006, or have one ordered?)

It's not quite that desperate - I'm shooting for Aug 11, not Aug 4. With that in mind, are your steps still the best course of action? If so...

1. Should I go ahead and use the Leslie's Super Floc that I bought before I vacuum to waste?

2. I've dumped a lot of clarifier into the pool in the past week or so - a full quart of Leslie's Clear and Perfect (one oz is supposed to treat 4000 gallons, use more for very cloudy water), and a few weeks ago a bunch of Leslie's PoolPerfect+PhosFree. Continue with more?

3. See my picture links below. It looks to me like I'll have to cut two pieces of PVC to open the filter; am I wrong?

4. I just ordered the K2006 from Amazon last night, as mentioned above. I haven't gotten shipping confirmation yet; I'd guess it won't be here until next week.

Here's how my pool looks right now.

Here's the hardware I'm working with, relevant to my question number 2 above. BTW, I've never used the New Water Cycler you see in this photo. I moved into this home with all this already installed, and when I researched the New Water, it didn't really seem advantageous.

Here's info on my filter and pump, just because I didn't have them handy when I filled out the chart.

Thanks, Ben.

[PoolDoc]

I'll look at the other, later, but a BIG WARNING right now:

If you've already used a "bunch" of clarifier, do NOT use any more, and do NOT use any floc.

Regarding the filter: if it was DEAD algae that was blowing through the filter, yes, you probably should open it. If you want to be sure, get some DE filter powder, put a couple of cups in the skimmer, and then see if that blows through. If so, your filter definitely needs service.

(PS: the "pump" photo is actually the pump MOTOR; you need a picture of the pump wet end, too.)

[pentachris]

Regarding the clarifier - understood.

Regarding the DE filter powder - I'll try to do that tomorrow after work.

Regarding the pump (motor) - sorry, if it's important, I'll try to find other identifying marks or tags.

Thanks again. I really want to get out of the "pool store cycle."

[waterbear]

RE: pump motor. It's an up rated 1 hp round flange (so it's a 3/4 HP pump in reality) A.O Smith replacement motor (not the original pump motor). The pump itself is most likely a Hayward or a Jacuzzi Magnum series since they all use round flange motors. My guess would be one of the Hayward pumps given the Hayward sand filter.

[BigDave]

...It looks to me like I'll have to cut two pieces of PVC to open the filter; am I wrong...

Yep, you'll have to cut the pipes to open the filter. If you install Unions when you put it back together, you'll be able to open it without cutting in the future.

[pentachris]

I went to Leslie's on Saturday to replace my vac hose (warranty claim - I still had the box stating "3 year warranty" that was dated 11/09 - sweet!).

I forgot to get DE powder to check the filter while I was there.

I vacuumed the dead algae to waste, probably dropping my water level by 12 inches or so. I refilled and put in 2 lbs of Power Powder Pro to try to keep it sanitized. That chlorine is now gone.

My K2006 test kit was delivered today. I've got pretty much 0 FC & CC; I added probably 15 little scoops of that powder and it barely gave the water a faint tinge of color.

My PH is 7.4.

Alakanity is 110.

CH is ~700. Yes, really. I followed the instructions in the Taylor testing instructional video about avoiding interference in a CH test. A few weeks ago, Leslie's told me they couldn't accurately read my CH and sent me home with a bottle of "Metal Free." After doing some reading around here, I wonder if it's because of the insane amount of Power Powder Pro (calcium hypochlorite) I've put in my pool this year (not exactly sure how much, but it's been over 100 lbs). Trichlor skimmer tabs don't seem to be cutting it, either, so I guess it's time to switch to bleach.

CYA was less than 30. Of course, it's hard to tell when it's outside of the range of your testing equipment, but if I had to guess based on level of opacity, I'd guess ~10. Maybe the trichlor tabs would be sufficient if my CYA were better??

Currently, the water looks clear, with a few spots of dead algae (pale sand-colored silt) on the bottom. I've got an idea of where I need to go from here, but I'll leave it to the experts to guide me. I will go ahead and ask a question, though - does it make a difference whether I use liquid or granulated CYA? Liquid has been MUCH more user-friendly in the past for me.

My wife is having folks over this Saturday (5 days from now), so it's imperative that I keep it swimmable until then, or return it to swimmability by then.

Thanks for the help and advice.

[PoolDoc]

; I added probably 15 little scoops of that powder and it barely gave the water a faint tinge of color.

Don't do that; if it doesn't turn pink with 2 scoops, it's not going to turn pink. If you want to confirm a reading, use OTO drops, which are not super accurate but are extremely reliable.

CH is ~700. Yes, really. I followed the instructions in the Taylor testing instructional video about avoiding interference in a CH test. A few weeks ago, Leslie's told me they couldn't accurately read my CH and sent me home with a bottle of "Metal Free." After doing some reading around here, I wonder if it's because of the insane amount of Power Powder Pro (calcium hypochlorite)

Actually, with a sand filter, if you'll remove any chemicals or tabs from your skimmer, you can LOWER your CH by adding the cal hypo via the skimmer. You must be 100% certain that there are no OTHER chemicals the cal hypo will contact, before you do this! And do it cautiously -- small doses -- at first, to make sure the calcium doesn't blow through your filter.

CYA was less than 30. Of course, it's hard to tell when it's outside of the range of your testing equipment, but if I had to guess based on level of opacity, I'd guess ~10. Maybe the trichlor tabs would be sufficient if my CYA were better??

If you have access to a Sams Club, go get a box of their PoolBrand 1# dichlor bags. Otherwise, order dichlor from Amazon:Kem-Tek Dichlor 22 lbs. The dichlor can be dumped straight into your pool, and will raise both CYA and chlorine. Dichlor is cheaper than liquid CYA . . . even if you count ONLY the CYA content, and not the chlorine.

My wife is having folks over this Saturday (5 days from now), so it's imperative that I keep it swimmable until then, or return it to swimmability by then.

Use the cal hypo -- test the small doses and then work up to 5 ppm overnight skimmer doses as quickly as you can. Ironically dosing this way will actually INCREASE your pool's clarity, though you'll have to backwash more often.

[pentachris]

Actually, with a sand filter, if you'll remove any chemicals or tabs from your skimmer, you can LOWER your CH by adding the cal hypo via the skimmer. You must be 100% certain that there are no OTHER chemicals the cal hypo will contact, before you do this! And do it cautiously -- small doses -- at first, to make sure the calcium doesn't blow through your filter.

Other chemicals such as what? How would I tell?

[PoolDoc]

Other chemicals such as what? How would I tell?

skimmer tabs

. . . or ANYTHING else. Basically, your skimmer needs to be clean and empty of anything except pool water, when you add cal hypo. AND, you must NOT have a feeder of any kind between the skimmer and the filter. (Downstream of the filter is OK.)