Time to Take My Pool Back from Leslie's

[BigDave]

...It looks to me like I'll have to cut two pieces of PVC to open the filter; am I wrong...

Yep, you'll have to cut the pipes to open the filter. If you install Unions when you put it back together, you'll be able to open it without cutting in the future.

[pentachris]

I went to Leslie's on Saturday to replace my vac hose (warranty claim - I still had the box stating "3 year warranty" that was dated 11/09 - sweet!).

I forgot to get DE powder to check the filter while I was there.

I vacuumed the dead algae to waste, probably dropping my water level by 12 inches or so. I refilled and put in 2 lbs of Power Powder Pro to try to keep it sanitized. That chlorine is now gone.

My K2006 test kit was delivered today. I've got pretty much 0 FC & CC; I added probably 15 little scoops of that powder and it barely gave the water a faint tinge of color.

My PH is 7.4.

Alakanity is 110.

CH is ~700. Yes, really. I followed the instructions in the Taylor testing instructional video about avoiding interference in a CH test. A few weeks ago, Leslie's told me they couldn't accurately read my CH and sent me home with a bottle of "Metal Free." After doing some reading around here, I wonder if it's because of the insane amount of Power Powder Pro (calcium hypochlorite) I've put in my pool this year (not exactly sure how much, but it's been over 100 lbs). Trichlor skimmer tabs don't seem to be cutting it, either, so I guess it's time to switch to bleach.

CYA was less than 30. Of course, it's hard to tell when it's outside of the range of your testing equipment, but if I had to guess based on level of opacity, I'd guess ~10. Maybe the trichlor tabs would be sufficient if my CYA were better??

Currently, the water looks clear, with a few spots of dead algae (pale sand-colored silt) on the bottom. I've got an idea of where I need to go from here, but I'll leave it to the experts to guide me. I will go ahead and ask a question, though - does it make a difference whether I use liquid or granulated CYA? Liquid has been MUCH more user-friendly in the past for me.

My wife is having folks over this Saturday (5 days from now), so it's imperative that I keep it swimmable until then, or return it to swimmability by then.

Thanks for the help and advice.

[PoolDoc]

; I added probably 15 little scoops of that powder and it barely gave the water a faint tinge of color.

Don't do that; if it doesn't turn pink with 2 scoops, it's not going to turn pink. If you want to confirm a reading, use OTO drops, which are not super accurate but are extremely reliable.

CH is ~700. Yes, really. I followed the instructions in the Taylor testing instructional video about avoiding interference in a CH test. A few weeks ago, Leslie's told me they couldn't accurately read my CH and sent me home with a bottle of "Metal Free." After doing some reading around here, I wonder if it's because of the insane amount of Power Powder Pro (calcium hypochlorite)

Actually, with a sand filter, if you'll remove any chemicals or tabs from your skimmer, you can LOWER your CH by adding the cal hypo via the skimmer. You must be 100% certain that there are no OTHER chemicals the cal hypo will contact, before you do this! And do it cautiously -- small doses -- at first, to make sure the calcium doesn't blow through your filter.

CYA was less than 30. Of course, it's hard to tell when it's outside of the range of your testing equipment, but if I had to guess based on level of opacity, I'd guess ~10. Maybe the trichlor tabs would be sufficient if my CYA were better??

If you have access to a Sams Club, go get a box of their PoolBrand 1# dichlor bags. Otherwise, order dichlor from Amazon:Kem-Tek Dichlor 22 lbs. The dichlor can be dumped straight into your pool, and will raise both CYA and chlorine. Dichlor is cheaper than liquid CYA . . . even if you count ONLY the CYA content, and not the chlorine.

My wife is having folks over this Saturday (5 days from now), so it's imperative that I keep it swimmable until then, or return it to swimmability by then.

Use the cal hypo -- test the small doses and then work up to 5 ppm overnight skimmer doses as quickly as you can. Ironically dosing this way will actually INCREASE your pool's clarity, though you'll have to backwash more often.

[pentachris]

Actually, with a sand filter, if you'll remove any chemicals or tabs from your skimmer, you can LOWER your CH by adding the cal hypo via the skimmer. You must be 100% certain that there are no OTHER chemicals the cal hypo will contact, before you do this! And do it cautiously -- small doses -- at first, to make sure the calcium doesn't blow through your filter.

Other chemicals such as what? How would I tell?

[PoolDoc]

Other chemicals such as what? How would I tell?

skimmer tabs

. . . or ANYTHING else. Basically, your skimmer needs to be clean and empty of anything except pool water, when you add cal hypo. AND, you must NOT have a feeder of any kind between the skimmer and the filter. (Downstream of the filter is OK.)

[pentachris]

Ah, I see. I thought you were referring to other chemicals dissolved in the pool water.

I'll keep it sanitized with the cal-hypo for now, going through the skimmer slowly and watching the outlets for blow-through. Maybe it will tell me on the pail, but does anyone know what the dosage rate is (X ounces will increase Y gallons of water by Z ppm free chlorine or whatever)? It's 73%.

My wife has a Sam's membership with her employer, so we'll make time soon to go get some dichlor.

I'll post back here with updates/questions.

Thanks again.

=========================================

Never mind my dosage question. I came home for lunch and found the answer on the bucket. X=1, Y=5000, Z=1.

I slowly added 12 oz through the skimmer closer to the filter and did not notice any blow-through.

I am starting to see a tinge of yellow around the edges.

I'll test, add more cal-hypo if necessary to get to 5 ppm and brush well this evening.

[pentachris]

Sample taken at dusk (87.0 degrees F, just for grins and giggles), showed 1.2 ppm FC. I added 16 oz of cal-hypo, waited an hour, and tested to confirm that I'd raised it by the desired ~ 4 ppm. It came in at 5.4 ppm.

I also brushed it well at about 5:30.

You know, if I'd just gotten rid of the dead algae to begin with, paid attention to the instructions on the cal-hypo bucket, and used that to sanitize the whole time, I probably wouldn't be in this mess. Imagine that - read the instructions! :/

[BigDave]

If you like liquid CYA and you don't mind paying the price, it's fine to use.

An alternative is dichlor, it will chlorinate (you need chlorine!) and add CYA. Dichlor will tend to push pH down so if you use it, have some Borax on hand to return the pH. I would be very careful about raising pH above where it is now (7.4) with the CH you've got. One pound of dichlor will raise your FC by a little more than 3ppm and your CYA by 3ppm.

OOPS! PoolDoc was posting at the same time as me. His advice about dropping your CH by dosing cal-hypo in the skimmer sounds good.