Moblaine's pool

[moblaine]

How can you test for ammonia?
I am also having a problem getting a free chlorine reading on my test strips and the pool store says everything looks fine but they're using strips, too. Was finally convinced to buy a test kit and I just ordered the Taylor K-2006 as recommended on this site. While awaiting delivery of the test kit, I'm looking for advice on whether to do anything or just wait. My pool's been open for 6 days and finally looks clean and clear after having been cloudy for several days. Since it looks good, I don't want to lose ground. I have a Frog in-line feeder that's been set on high for the past 3 days and still no chlorine reading. I should add that I've backwashed my DE filter 3x since opening and it's ready for it again but my husband wants to open it up and clean the filter and won't be home for a few nights. He thinks I can wait until the weekend to get the filter cleaned but I feel like a backwashing might help my problem (pressure needle show we are up 9 psi from where we started). I've also added about 18 gallons of shock over the course of 6 days (maybe should have done more at once instead of spreading out) and I used 3 lbs. Multi Magic Shock they sold me. Originally, my TC reading was showing purple on the strip while FC did not show anything but after the Multi Magic Shock, the TC and FC look equal. Any ideas to alleviate my stress?

[Watermom]

Until your good kit arrives (and good decision to order it, by the way!) can you pick up a cheap OTO/Phenol Red kit from Walmart?

What kind of shock are you using -- meaning ingredients, not product names. It may be that instead of having no chlorine, that you actually have really high chlorine that is bleaching out your test strips.

I'd suggest unhooking the Frog. Those things add copper to the water and you really don't want copper in your water. Contrary to popular belief, it is not chlorine that causes blonde hair to turn green, it is copper. It will also stain your pool's surface. How long have you been using it? If for awhile, you're probably going to want to have your water testing for metals.at a pool store. Just don't let them talk you into buying a bunch of stuff!

Please make a signature line. See the link in my signature below about how to do this. In it, put what type of pool you have, the volume, type and size of filter, size of pump and the fact that you have a Taylor kit on order. (Once it arrives, update to say you have it.)

BTW -- It is best to start your own thread instead of tacking on to the end of somebody else's thread. I have moved your post into its own thread.

[PoolDoc]

How can you test for ammonia?

This kit at Amazon *should* work, but we haven't verified that:

API Ammonia Test Kit (Salicylate)

To avoid losing ground, add 3 gallons, per 10K gallons of pool water, of PLAIN 6% household bleach each evening. Use an OTO kit to test before re-dosing; if you get a DARK yellow value in the evening, skip that dose.

Also, check your pH. If it's below 7.4, add 1 box of borax per 10K gallons of water, each evening as well. Continue till your pH is 7.4 or above. (Add slowly, via the skimmer, with your pump on.)

[moblaine]

Watermom, thanks for response. Will fix signature. Kit just arrived and I'm reading instructions so I can test when I get home.

I've had the Pool Frog for 7 years, ever since pool was opened with no green hair or staining. Is it the mineral reservoir that adds the copper? I have a copper test kit due to having a heater so keep an eye on it.

[moblaine]

Okay, got my first set of test results using the K-2006:
FC - 0.4
TC - 0.4
PH - 7.0
Alk - 100
Hardness - 130
CYA - 60

The pool water looks clean & clear with a little bit of brown stuff settling on bottom but the pollen is very high and collecting in skimmer sock.

PH result was lower than I anticipated -- Pool Store had said 7.4. Could the 7.0 PH be what is causing my lack of a chlorine reading? I've had short cycles of needing to backwash filter. I did end up backwashing on Thursday and already it needs it again (2 days later). Today we are opening up filter and cleaning everything then starting with a fresh batch of ZeoFiber.

Also - when "swirling" water in test kit tube, I assumed I should cap it so as not to lose any liquid. Should I try to avoid getting liquid on cap and simply "swirl" or is it okay to swirl it a lot?

[PoolDoc]

Hi Moblaine;

I put your test results in the spreadsheet visible at the 2nd link below. If you would, enter new results in the form at the first link. That will make it easier for us to keep up. If you do a set tomorrow, please include copper levels.

Pool History Form
Pool History Results

Regarding your pH, with most forms of chlorine, the pH will DROP as the chlorine is used up. I don't know if that's the case in your pool, or not. However, a fairly low pH is desirable while cleaning up copper.

But, I'm not clear: do you want to continue using the Frog product? If you don't mind the possible side effects, the copper does NOT hurt anything, sanitation wise, and it is algaecidal. The problem is, it is NOT a sanitizer, and you have to maintain higher chlorine levels than suggested, in order to maintain a sanitized pool.

[moblaine]

I'm new at this forum and wasn't sure but I think you wanted me to fill out those forms? When I open the Pool History Results it's mostly filled out so I filled out the Pool History Form. Let me know if I failed to do something I should have. Thanks for any help.

[moblaine]

Hi Ben, I will re-test tomorrow and add results. I tested for copper today and had none so will add those results to the chart.

Can you explain to me - Do I need to worry about the copper/Ph thing if I don't seem to have a copper problem?

Also, I am confused about the Frog question - are we both talking about the products from King Tech? A friend of my husband's installed our pool (he's in the installation business but doesn't sell chemicals). He has us using the same things he uses. Every year I insert a new Mineral Reservoir into the Frog but instead of paying an arm & a leg for their Bac Pacs, I just cut the bottom off and fill them with 1" or 3" tri-chlor tabs. What are the side effects you mention? Wouldn't the tri-chlor tabs BE a sanitizer? I apologize if I'm being slow to catch on here, it can be overwhelming. Thanks for your help.

[PoolDoc]

Yeah, I entered the results you'd listed in post #5 above; if you could, please enter new results as you get them.

As far as being new -- everyone's new to this. It's something that just became possible, but that I've wanted to be able to do for a long time. I've just started setting up the spread sheets.

[PoolDoc]

Can you explain to me - Do I need to worry about the copper/Ph thing if I don't seem to have a copper problem?

No. If you have 0.0 ppm copper, it's not an issue.

Also, I am confused about the Frog question - are we both talking about the products from King Tech? A friend of my husband's installed our pool (he's in the installation business but doesn't sell chemicals). He has us using the same things he uses. Every year I insert a new Mineral Reservoir into the Frog but instead of paying an arm & a leg for their Bac Pacs, I just cut the bottom off and fill them with 1" or 3" tri-chlor tabs. What are the side effects you mention? Wouldn't the tri-chlor tabs BE a sanitizer?

You're not 'using' the Frog, your 'abusing' it!

The mineral reservoir has copper in it. But I don't think it always succeeds at adding copper to the pool (in other words: it fails to work, which is good, but expensive).

You're sort of working around their program, using their feeder. You need to watch out for staining when you replace the mineral pack. However, if you are just using the plastic cartridge as a holder for your own tabs . . . why do you need a new one?