Should i replace my salt cell or the whole system

[Poolsean]

It's definately not a chlorine generator. Copper is too soft a metal to last any length of time in an electrolytic process, much less an electrolytic chlorine generator.

[spica]

Everytime you consider replacing a cell or installing a SWCG, I would seriously (re)consider the cost. Kinch, had a very good cost analysis regarding a SWCG (see http://www.truetex.com/poolcontrol.htm). It might not be as low cost as many people give it credit. It does however supply a great convenience factor.

[PoolDoc]

It (a SWCG - PoolDoc) might not be as low cost as many people give it credit. It does however supply a great convenience factor.

Spica, we do NOT recommend SWCG's as a cost saving measure. Instead tell people that using the BBB method manual is cheaper, as a rule, than using a SWCG, once you look at all the costs. They might save money for people who are frequently away, since algae episodes can be so expensive, and a SWCG makes it much easier to keep a pool chlorinated while no one's at home. So, while most people who have them seem to like them, in my judgement they are only 'essential' for 'road warriors'.

We *have* seen some problems with corrosion, but these seem to be somewhat localized to dry areas of the country, and to pools using specific kinds of natural stone. But, we haven't figured out what kind of stone that is, except it doesn't seem to be limestone or granite.

Copper is too soft a metal to last any length of time in an electrolytic process, much less an electrolytic chlorine generator.

Sean, I was *guessing* was that they WERE using copper, but were treating the deterioration of the electrodes as a 'feature' (it adds algicidal copper to the pool) rather than a 'failure' (the SWCG stopped working). However, when I looked at the schematic, it appears I was mistaken, and you are correct.

In the schematic below for the "Krystal Clear Saltwater System " (~$270 @ Intex), part #4 is listed as "ELECTROLYTIC CELL (WITH TITANIUM PLATES) (O-RING A INCLUDED) 11233" for $131, and #5 is listed as "COPPER ELECTRODE 11234" for $54. Replacing parts may not make sense, however. The complete unit is available from Amazon of for less than $170 (May 2012): Intex 54601EG Krystal Clear Saltwater System

[turk2012]

I had the goldline aquarite system priced out by local pool company. They came in at $1,400. For now i'll be going with the BBB method. I did it for most of last year and just can't see spending that much on a new one. That being said, I will definitely miss the convenience factor of the swg.

I suppose my only quandry now will be how I maintenance the system when on vacation.

[PoolDoc]

I suppose my only quandary now will be how I maintenance the system when on vacation.

Here's how:

1. Make sure you the K-2006 or K-1515 so you can manage high chlorine levels. (Test kit page in sig)

2. Get a K-2006 or HTH 6-way so you can test CYA

3. Buy undiluted, unblended dichlor from Sams Club (50# for $105) or Amazon Kem-Tek Dichlor 22.5 lbs

4. Buy undiluted, unblended trichlor from Sams Club (40# for ?? I forget, but cheap) or Amazon Kem-Tek 3" Trichlor 35#

5. If you use Amazon, get the 1 month Amazon Prime trial, so you can ship 2-day for free. (~$90 unlimited; remember to cancel if it doesn't work for you -- I live by it at Xmas!)

6. Get your CYA up to near 100 ppm by vacation. (The 22lbs of KemTek dichlor, in your pool, will add about 55 ppm of CYA to your pool)

7. Get a floater and trichlor (Sams Club or Amazon again)

Kem-Tek 879 Pool Floating Tablet Dispenser Pool and Spa Accessories
Kem-Tek 3" Trichlor 35#

8. Shock the pool to 20 ppm FC before you leave, and then put the trichlor floater in, filled full, and turned down to the lowest setting.

You should be good for a week, that way.

[turk2012]

PoolDoc, Thanks for the step by step lesson. Amazing the quality of content i get on this forum. I really appreciate it.

[PoolDoc]

You're welcome.

[JonnyG]

Pool Doc,

Its been awhile since I have been on the forum but I thought it was not good to have your CYA so high (as 100+) as the only way to get rid of it is to drain the water from the pool and high levels of CYA force you to keep the FC very high. I always targeted a CYA of 40-60 so I could keep my FC at the 3-5 PPM level. Or am I remembering wrongly?

JP

[PoolDoc]

That's true, but if you maintain the ratio between chlorine and CYA, your chlorine consumption doesn't increase, as the levels increase.

What does happen is that you are able to 'store' more and more chlorine in the pool. When you get to CYA = 150, you can add chlorine just 1x per week!