Dual Speed or a Variable Speed for a plain Jane pool.

[Lip Out]

It looks like whomever plumbed the heater took some short cuts. You could fix this pretty easily by dropping the 3-way valve to the same the level as the heater exit so you could eliminate a 90 and the coupler but you would probably need a new 3-way valve to upsize the branch line. This could be a future project at some point since it is completely independent of the pump and I would only redo it if you plan on plumbing in the cleaner line.

As for the pump

Hey Mark, I have a few questions again. When you say they took short cuts and I should lower and remove the 90*, is that because (on the pressure side) the more 90*s you have you lose pressure? Or are the short cuts more extensive.

I went out and measured the pipe again. The suction side is 2". The pressure side to the spa (I believe it goes to the spa) is 2". The pressure side to the pool is 1.5". Maybe be vice/versa. Those are going in to the ground. Will the 1.5" be an issue when plumbing for the Intelliflo? Also, it has 1.5" going to the filter. I have never looked under there, will I be able to take 2" to the bottom of that type of DE filter?

When I re-plumb this I want to do this in one shot. So, I was looking around for some plumbing schematics, and I believe this one will work. I am correct in my thinking? If it is, what is the purpose of having 2 valves for the spa, especially the "Spa Make-up" valve before the check valve? What is the purpose of having the 2 directional valves for the Spa?

http://www.poolcenter.com/images/jan...iagram_pg4.jpg

Thanks again for the help.

[PoolDoc]

I need to publish some guidelines for use of images from other sites . . . but I'm pretty sure PoolCenter considers us competition, and would not want us using their image without attribution.

Sorry!

(I'm pretty twitchy about this, at the moment, having found "Leaking Pools" in Florida TOTALLY ripping off my name and logo:
http://leakingpools.com/about/ . I'm filing a DMCA takedown request against them today, and do NOT want to be on the receiving end of such a request myself!)

[Lip Out]

I need to publish some guidelines for use of images from other sites . . . but I'm pretty sure PoolCenter considers us competition, and would not want us using their image without attribution.

Sorry!

(I'm pretty twitchy about this, at the moment, having found "Leaking Pools" in Florida TOTALLY ripping off my name and logo:
http://leakingpools.com/about/ . I'm filing a DMCA takedown request against them today, and do NOT want to be on the receiving end of such a request myself!)

Sorry about that Ben. I'm pretty comfortable with the conduit sizes. I am an electrician, so I know what to look for with pipes. But thanks for the heads up.

Mark, thanks so much for the help. Just about answers all my questions. I will try to post pics when I am done with everything.

[mas985]

Hey Mark, I have a few questions again. When you say they took short cuts and I should lower and remove the 90*, is that because (on the pressure side) the more 90*s you have you lose pressure? Or are the short cuts more extensive.

By lowering the valve, you can remove a 90, the union coupling and the short section of smaller pipe between the valve and the union. But like I said, it is not that critical so if you want to skip that part, no big deal. The combination of all three things has an impact but nothing that would cause a problem.

I went out and measured the pipe again. The suction side is 2". The pressure side to the spa (I believe it goes to the spa) is 2". The pressure side to the pool is 1.5". Maybe be vice/versa. Those are going in to the ground. Will the 1.5" be an issue when plumbing for the Intelliflo? Also, it has 1.5" going to the filter. I have never looked under there, will I be able to take 2" to the bottom of that type of DE filter?.

Just keep the 2" to the pump and use all 2" pipe to the filter where you can use a 2" to 1.5" threaded adapter if that is what the filter requires.

When I re-plumb this I want to do this in one shot. So, I was looking around for some plumbing schematics, and I believe this one will work. I am correct in my thinking? If it is, what is the purpose of having 2 valves for the spa, especially the "Spa Make-up" valve before the check valve? What is the purpose of having the 2 directional valves for the Spa?

This is really only needed when you have automation that does not support a timed spillover feature control but I think most controllers do now. A purely manual setup would not require the Spa makeup feature. The valving has two purposes. In pool mode, the extra valve allows for either a spa spillover feature and/or to fill the spa back up if the level should drop. If you are planning to go with a full controller including the actuators, then you might want to decide on the controller first before settling on the valving.

Ben, that configuration drawing actually came from Jandy (now Zodiac) originally and since there are no copyright markings, I would assume that it is ok to post at least the link.

[PoolDoc]

Y'all be VERY careful to distinguish 2" PVC (2.5" OD) from 1.5" PVC (2" OD).

Lip Out can NOT measure the ID without cutting the pipe -- if his 2" pipe is a *measured* 2" OD, then it's 1.5" PVC pipe.

[mas985]

Good point. I assumed Lipout took that into consideration. For Schedule 40 pipe, here are the dimensions:

Pipe Size and Water Velocity

[PoolDoc]

I'm not saying he didn't, but when dealing with consumers (as opposed to mechanics & trades people) you have to generally assume that when they say 'I measured and it was 2"' that means it actually measured 2", not that it was 2.375" and nominally 2".

It really gets bad when you get into situations which mix plumbing sizes and HVAC sizes. For example, a 1/8" threaded by 1/4" flare ell . . . is the same pipe or tubing size on both sides of the ell! Because years ago, I did mechanical repairs for a variety of full service restaurants and bars in Chattanooga, I was always into projects with mixed sizes like that. (I was licensed as a master plumber.)