Re-occurring ZOMBIE Algae...

[PoolDoc]

Interesting, on all sorts of levels. I hadn't heard that TFP was trying to get away from "BBB Method", though I know it irritates some of them that I originated almost all of the ideas behind "BBB". (Chem_Geek did the analysis that explained EXACTLY how those methods worked.) It's kinda funny, really.

Anyhow:

1. Your TA is not a problem, unless you are using a heater or a SWCG. Not sure why they'd tell you otherwise.

2. The ONLY reason not to add borates while your chlorine level is high, is that you may not be able to test pH levels accurately. I'm not sure if Dave's version of my old PS-233 kit is still using Taylor's phenol red blend. If it is, you can test pH levels up to FC=10 ppm. Above that, you need to do a 50:50 dilution with DISTILLED water (available in gallons from Walmart -- distilled, not 'bottled', 'spring', 'artesian', etc.). IF you use distilled, it won't affect the pH much, but will reduce chlorine levels by 1/2.

3. I doubt borates will help much, but they surely won't hurt, so go ahead.

4. For reasons unknown to me (and Chem_Geek), a small percentage of pools are highly susceptible to mustard algae. (It might be proximity to fresh ground water, like rivers and ponds. The two commercial pools I've dealt with, that had this issue, were close to a river.)

5. The ONLY side-effect free method I know of, of helping with mustard algae is very low phosphate levels. I understand that TFP is fairly rabid against using phosphate removers. They ARE rather a pain to use, at first, and the test kits (even Taylors) aren't great. But if you learn to maintain consistently low phosphate, doing so WILL make it easier to kill resistant algae, and will generally make your pool less susceptible to algae. I'm personally using them with good effect on a large 200,000 commercial pool that has ALWAYS --for 25+ years -- been prone to mustard algae.

---------- GOT TO RUN - WILL CONTINUE LATER -------------

[Waldog]

Interesting, on all sorts of levels. I hadn't heard that TFP was trying to get away from "BBB Method", though I know it irritates some of them that I originated almost all of the ideas behind "BBB". (Chem_Geek did the analysis that explained EXACTLY how those methods worked.) It's kinda funny, really.

I thought so too. They don't describe it as BBB anymore. It's TFP method and shocking is not shocking, it's SLAMMING. And believe me... they'll will tell you if you are "DOING IT WRONG". I have the de-merits to prove it. LOL

Yeah there are some differences for sure. Doesn't seem to be as important to use Borax to them which is puzzling after what I've read because it sure as heck can't hurt?

At any rate, I am about 5-8 miles as the crow flies from a river called the "St. Johns". My pool is near trees, and specifically very close to a tangerine tree which is NOT in season and is losing fruit. I did cut it back away from the pool. This is the best location I could find on my property without putting it in the front yard (we have two acres) and without putting it in the way of my garage access.

Could the phosphates come from rain water? Our water came via truck as our well is high in iron, and I did not want to deal with that situation.

I'm willing to do the borates because of the other benefits (sparklypoolitus) and it may help prevent other forms of algae as well as being cheap.

I gotta run too... be back later.

[Waldog]

Just got home and no algae on the pool floor. Tested my FC and PH with OTO test and this is the first time that it's turned ORANGE. Like NEON orange!!!

I will do the FAS-DPD test and see what results I get with that.

PH is reading 7.5 but it always has been so I don't know if that's false because chlorine is so high.

Better half is on way to Wal-Mart shortly to get bleach and borax.

I'll be back shortly with the FAS-DPD results and CC test.



Ok BACK!!! Just tested:

CYA: 40
FC: 27.5
CC: 0

Now... how in the world did the pool have some algae on the floor this morning?

I dumped a 64OZ bleach in this AM before I left for work because I was afraid I would come home to algae again... there's no way that one bottle put me up that high unless my FC was already pretty good. Yeah, I didn't test, was in a hurry so I winged it.

I guess I should do an OCLT tonight/tomorrow.

Going to vacuum up the pool now and possible swim. The h-e-double-hockey-sticks with it. LOL

Side note: I am seriously thinking my Aldi bleach was weak and quite possible that last bottle was not... although it was in a case I've been using... I dunno I have never seen my OTO turn orange so that's why I say that.

[Watermom]

I would go ahead and brush the pool while the chlorine is high even though you see no algae.

And, you'll probably want to wear old swimsuits if you swim with the chlorine that high. It won't hurt you but will likely fade swimsuits.

.

[JimK]

If I understand correctly, the "safe" MA at Ace is a diluted version of regular MA. If so, your dosing will be different. Personally, not knowing if there is anything else in the "safe" MA that you might not want in your pool, I wouldn't use it.

[PoolDoc]

Some 'safe' MA's have detergents or other addititives, making them NOT-safe for your pool.

[Waldog]

Thanks everyone! I vacuumed the pool and while doing that I noticed some more algae... not much. I brushed like crazy and then went swimming later.

My birthday suit doesn't fade! LOL

Kept an eye on it all weekend, and so far the algae did not return. I will inspect closer again when I get home this afternoon, but maybe I have beat it back for now.

I need to take a look at the MA that I bought and see what is "exactly" in it. I will post here and see if it needs to get returned for regular MA.

I'd like to borate the pool ASAP. Any suggestions on how much MA to add to start bringing my TA down before doing so? Or as you said PoolDoc I really don't need to worry about it?