high ph/ alkalinity and green pool

[vjeffcoat]

We have a 24 foot above ground pool, vinyl liner, sand filter.

The water in my pool is a nasty green color, with no visibility of the bottom of the pool. I tested the water (with one of the strip tests) and it says i have No chlorine, ph and alkalinity are very high, cya is fine. I went to the pool store today to have them test for the specific levels, but once i said the pool was green i was told that they didn't even need to do that, that i needed to shock with 5 lbs of shock and add floc.

Is there a better way to clear up the pool without having to floc, since i was told with the floc you have to vacuum to waste, and i just hate the thought of wasting so much water.

[PoolDoc]

Hi Vjeff;

1. Don't use their shock without knowing what's in it -- it may make things worse, by adding calcium, alkalinity and raising the pH!
2. Complete the Pool Chart, so we have the info we need to help you.
3. Get a good test kit; test the pool, & tell us what you find.
4. If the HTH 6-way is not available locally, get a cheap OTO/pH drops kit, so we can get started.

Ben

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+ It's much easier to answer your questions, when we have the details about your pool in one place. We often 'waste' the first few posts back and forth collecting information. So, please complete our new Pool Chart form -- it takes about 30 seconds, but will save much more than that.

Pool Chart Entry Form

+ Get a cheap OTO (yellow drops) / phenol test kit, or if available at YOUR Walmart (check availability), get the HTH 6-way DROPS test kit, which is compatible with the Taylor K2006. Test the pool as soon and you can, and post the results. If you get the 6-way kit, ALSO test the water you FILL the pool with, especially if it's a well, and post THOSE results as well. (The HTH is the best available kit you're likely to find locally, but it's not the K-2006. It can only provide rough measurements chlorine levels above 5 ppm, and it measures "TOTAL" hardness, rather than "CALCIUM" hardness, which is not ideal.)

+ Having a good test kit makes pool care easier for EVERYONE, but is an ESSENTIAL tool for pools with problems. A good test kit means a kit that can test chlorine from 0 - 25 ppm, pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, and stabilizer with reasonable accuracy. Test strips (AKA 'guess-strips' ) do NOT meet this standard. Some pool store testing is accurate; most is not. The ONLY way you'll know whether your pool store is accurate or bogus, is by testing accurately your own self. On the other hand, pool store 'computer' dosing recommendations are NEVER trustworthy -- ignore them. They are designed to sell more chemicals than you need, and WILL cause many pool problems.

+ We recommend the Taylor K-2006 test kit, which meets the requirements above, for many reasons. The HTH 6-way drops kit is a great starter kit, and is compatible with the K2006 (it's made by Taylor). There are a few alternatives; for example Lamotte makes an FAS-DPD kit that's OK -- but it costs 3x as much. But, we're not aware of any test that is better, and since we are all familiar with the K-2006 (and can help you with it) we recommend it exclusively ( Test kit info page )

One caution for the 2012 season: Amazon does not stock the kits directly. So when buying at Amazon, Amato is our current preferred seller. However, they often don't list enough stock to last the whole day, so try order mid-morning. You should expect a delivered cost under $60 for the K2006A and under $95 for the K2006C. If you can't find that, wait a day.

+ Here are links to the kits we recommend (you can check local availability on the HTH kit, using the Walmart link):

HTH 6-Way Test Kit @ Walmart
Taylor K2006A (3/4 oz bottles) @ Amazon
Taylor K2006C (2 oz bottles) @ Amazon

[vjeffcoat]

1. Shock brand : All Clear Shock / ingredients: 68% Calcium Hypochlorite , 32% "other" (it doesn't list what the other is)
2. Finished the pool chart
3. I used AquaChek 7 test strips, and the results were : Total Hardness - very low (0) / Total Chlorine- 0 / Free Chlorine - 0 / ph - high (approx. 8.4) / Total alkalinity - high (approx 180) / CYA - ideal (approx 30-50)

I tested the fill water as well and the results were: Total Hardness- very low (0) / Total Chlorine- 0 / Free Chlorine - 0 /ph -low (approx 6.8) / Total alkalinity - ok (approx 120) / CYA - low (0)

[PoolDoc]

1. Give your test results, you CAN use that shock. (The ingredients are OK.) BUT, you should confirm them with a 6-way drops or a K2006

2. In your signature, as you can see.

3. CYA test results from 'guess-strips' are completely unreliable.

[vjeffcoat]

Ok great, I will go buy the 6 way drops next time i go into town.

Will just the shock and regular vacuuming/filtration get rid of the green, or will i still need to floc and vacuum to waste?

[PoolDoc]

Sorry, I'm buzzing through a bunch of posts and threads, and didn't finish yours.

To get rid of algae, you have to kill it first. To kill it you have to add enough chlorine. So, do this:

1. Start adding 4 gallons of PLAIN 6% bleach LATE each evening.
2. Add bleach and then brush immediately after the 2nd dose
3. Run your pump 24/7; only backwash when the filter pressure is up at least 4 psi over the clean pressure.
4. Continue dosing in this manner until the algae has all turned gray or brown.
5. Dose 1x after that happens; then turn pump off overnight and see if the algae will settle.
6. Maintain dark yellow to orangish yellow chlorine levels for several days after.

Let us know how it goes, so we can suggest modifications as needed. No floccing yet!