Thanks guys! That inital TA scared me. Now, can you tell me when blue is blue and not "blue" and when red is red and not "light red"?
Donnie
Thanks guys! That inital TA scared me. Now, can you tell me when blue is blue and not "blue" and when red is red and not "light red"?
Donnie
9000 Gallon Fiberglass IG / Sta-Rite pump,cartridge filter & heater / PoolPilot Dig 220-36 SWG / Testing w/K2006
The TA test will go from green to red with a greyish color in between. I usually count the drop when it turns gray or red, but it's always within one drop so is not a problem.
It is the CH test where you go from red to blue and that is sometimes a difficult test to read because the blue won't stay blue if there is iron or copper in the water as the blue will turn purple and look somewhat red. To avoid this, add two drops of the titrant (hardness reagent) to the water sample before adding anything (e.g. before adding the calcium buffer). I always do the test this way (it is a recommended alternative from Taylor) and it comes out with a much easier to see endpoint transition. Be sure to count the two drops in the total count. Also, if you think you are at blue, but are not sure, just add another drop and the blue will be much more obvious. Again, the transition between the red and blue will be somewhat gray if you just happen to hit it exactly but the next drop will be a definite blue. I count either the gray or a blue as the end point, and again it's always within one drop so is not a problem.
Richard
Thanks. That was my first time with a test kit so I was a little nervous.
Donnie
9000 Gallon Fiberglass IG / Sta-Rite pump,cartridge filter & heater / PoolPilot Dig 220-36 SWG / Testing w/K2006
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