Best way to open a AG pool after the winter

[CarlD]

OK, you actually have more info than you need here. Forget borates for now. You can always buy borate test strips later.
BEFORE EVERYTHING: FOLLOW THE ADVICE TO ADJUST IN SMALL INCREMENTS THEN TEST!

1) Fix your pH by adding either Borax or Washing Soda--Since your TA is low, Washing Soda is fine.
2) After your pH is around 7.6, test for TA. If it's anything above 60, don't worry about it for now.
3) Add bleach until your FC level is between 3 and 6ppm if you don't have algae. Shock to 15ppm if you do (based on CYA of 35).

Go Swimming!

[rdefino]

OK, you actually have more info than you need here. Forget borates for now. You can always buy borate test strips later.
BEFORE EVERYTHING: FOLLOW THE ADVICE TO ADJUST IN SMALL INCREMENTS THEN TEST!

1) Fix your pH by adding either Borax or Washing Soda--Since your TA is low, Washing Soda is fine.
2) After your pH is around 7.6, test for TA. If it's anything above 60, don't worry about it for now.
3) Add bleach until your FC level is between 3 and 6ppm if you don't have algae. Shock to 15ppm if you do (based on CYA of 35).

Go Swimming!

Cool, Thank everyone for the help. It's gets a little confusing.

Once other question, what is a good stabilizer to use along with the bleach?

Also ,is it ok to use bleach all the time in-place of chlorine for a local pool shop?

[CarlD]

I tried to make it less confusing.

ALL stabilizer is CYA--Cyanuric or Isocyanuric Acid. Easiest way to buy it is as a dry powder. There is a liquid version that works faster but is very, very expensive. The other two ways is from ordinary Di-Chlor powder and Tri-Chlor tablets.

You can use bleach FOREVER. I tend to buy liquid chlorine but only at one particular pool store because it tests out at 14% (though listed as 12%) and when compared to bleach is cheaper--as if I was buying 7% bleach at $1.50/gal. If its unit price goes higher than bleach, I'll use bleach instead.

While BBB stands for "Bleach, Borax and Baking Soda" what it REALLY means is you don't need pricey packaging from the pool store when the same stuff is far cheaper at the supermarket or big box store.

[rdefino]

Thanks, I'm figuring it out with the help of all of you. I just added some washing soda, small amount. I'll wait about 4hrs and retest.

Now isn't di-chlor and tri-chlor clhorine in table form?

[CarlD]

Di-chlor is almost always in powdered form, but I have seen 1" tablets once in a blue moon. For every 10ppm of Free Chlorine, Di-chlor adds about 9ppm of CYA.
Tri-chlor most commonly comes in 3" tablets and is VERY acidic and for every 10ppm of FC adds 6ppm of CYA.

Bleach is pH neutral and adds nothing but chlorine.

[SunnyOptimism]

Cool, Thank everyone for the help. It's gets a little confusing.

Once other question, what is a good stabilizer to use along with the bleach?

Also ,is it ok to use bleach all the time in-place of chlorine for a local pool shop?

The best way I have found to add cyanuric acid to your pool is to measure a 1lb (16oz) sample of it into a nylon skimmer sock, tie off the top and place the sock in front of a pool return. It will dissolve slowly. If you don't have an easy way to hang it in front of return, then throw it in the skimmer basket BUT only leave it in there while the pump is running. Never leave it in there when the water is stagnant. Never pour CYA directly into the skimmer or the pool as it dissolves slowly and can plug up your skimmer line.

CYA, like dichlor and trichlor, is acidic and will lower both pH and TA. So be careful when adding large amounts of it and keep and eye on your pH.

As for bleach, I try to find the best deal by dividing price by volume and % sodium hypochlorite. That way you can make an apples-to-apples comparison. Always check the date code on the bleach bottles as that will tell you if it is fresh. Bleach left sitting around naturally decays over time losing hypochlorite. Old bleach is bad bleach.