Fanta Sea Pool

[Watermom]

You should be able to edit your post. There is a button in the lower right corner.

[J_Palmer_Cass]

You should be able to edit your post. There is a button in the lower right corner.

I can not edit my posting at this point in time. I am not sure if that edit permission is granted to me.

Way down the bottom this is what I see under permissions:

Posting Permissions
You may post new threads
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You may not edit your posts

[PoolDoc]

@Watermom: moderated (ie, anonymous) users can't edit their posts.

Spammers have been able to enter as moderated users, get a post approved, and then edit that post to contain their spam. The forum does not have any sort of alert on edits, so I can't detect that until a user sees it and contacts me.

@J_Palmer,etc: Regarding photos, we archive them for precisely that reason. The vBulletin attachment system has a history of 'eating' photos at each major upgrade; I've lost all photos 2x now. Over the winter, we mostly move user photos into the PoolForum Picasa account.

[J_Palmer_Cass]

FantaSea upper rail failure.

[CarlD]

That kind of rail failure is my fear. The long rail is about 900 lbs and required a bobcat to install it. That is why I want to arrest rust damage now.
Your original wood walls lasted 14 years. My "Space Age" wall have been failing for years and now, at year 12, are about to puncture the liner. It is a beaded liner, not an overlap.

If I go ahead with the vinyl plywood walls, I would only screw them in, but I will consider PT 3/4" A-C ply. What did you use between the plywood and the liner?

[J_Palmer_Cass]

That kind of rail failure is my fear. The long rail is about 900 lbs and required a bobcat to install it. That is why I want to arrest rust damage now.

To gain access to the metal rail system, you have to remove the solar panels, the outer 2" x 4" panel supports, as well as the 1" X 6" outside vertical that your rails screw into. There is no way to get at the rails if you do not do that. I have pictures if you need to see what I am talking about.

Your original wood walls lasted 14 years. My "Space Age" wall have been failing for years and now, at year 12, are about to puncture the liner. It is a beaded liner, not an overlap.

If I go ahead with the vinyl plywood walls, I would only screw them in, but I will consider PT 3/4" A-C ply. What did you use between the plywood and the liner?

I guess we are into semantics here. The factory 4' X 8" plywood panels start to fail near the 10 year mark. It was not realistic to replace them until the liner was shot. The liner was replaced after 14 years. Just as a note, they do not use marine grade plywood. Just exterior grade with a vinyl coating on both sides. I recommend that you stay clear of that product.

I bought a full new coping kit for this 2013 rebuild, and purchased the beaded liner. Leisure Living gave me a discount on the package.


Some details here. Screw in 15 year old pressure treated (PT) plywood sidewalls at pool year 30 (2013). Plywood is still in great shape after 15 years of use. Top 2" X 6" PT are all new due to warping and some rot.





Apply duct tape (or similar) over seams and all screws, spray on swimming pool adhesive, and then apply pool wall foam. The wall foam can be purchased at any pool supply store including Leisure Living.






Note: One of my postings is missing.

[CarlD]

By far the worst rust I have on the rails is on the diagonal rounds. The rest is more surface rust. I certainly want to avoid removing the outside 1x6 as that requires removing my custom fencing completely (Ben has a picture of my pool here somewhere). The 4x4's seem in good shape, and, since it is an "Add-a-Deck" they don't have the extended cantilever to support more than the 2' wide deck. Where we extended the deck a few years ago (on the East end) it is self-supporting, not relying on the FantaSea structure.

Looking at the price of A-C marine-grade PT, I have to say it's far, FAR cheaper than Leisure Living's wood walls--about 1/4 the price. Using wall foam over the ply means that you CAN use duct tape (not recommended when the liner is directly against the water wall. So I'm seriously considering taking your advice on that step. Even at $40/sheet, 14 sheets of marine ply are STILL, at $560 far less than the $$1800 + shipping quoted. That's a great idea!

[J_Palmer_Cass]

By far the worst rust I have on the rails is on the diagonal rounds. The rest is more surface rust. I certainly want to avoid removing the outside 1x6 as that requires removing my custom fencing completely (Ben has a picture of my pool here somewhere). The 4x4's seem in good shape, and, since it is an "Add-a-Deck" they don't have the extended cantilever to support more than the 2' wide deck. Where we extended the deck a few years ago (on the East end) it is self-supporting, not relying on the FantaSea structure.

I know what you are saying about taking the pool apart to get at things. Don't worry about those diagonal rounds. If you do nothing at all they will last 100 years. Worry about the long term condition of the 4 angles on each rail. The top angles furthest away (AKA outside top) from the waterwall is the key item to watch (20 20 hindsight).

At the year 14 rebuild (1998), we replaced the FantaSea plywood waterwalls with the PT 3/4" plywood. We also cleaned and repainted the bottom rail. That is a must do item. We also have 4" X 4" posts every 2 feet on the side walls that we paid extra for at the time at the original installation.

As I recall, a few of the upper 2" X 6" PT solar panel / coping supports needed to be changed at that time on as needed basis. If the 2" X 6" supports are loose, then the top of the 4" X 4" posts may be rotted a bit. If the 2" X 6" PT supports are loose, warped or a bit rotted, the coping has mounting problems. Judgement call on what you need to do there. Until you take the coping and old liner off, you don't know what is needed.

While the waterwalls are removed, I would put a coat of paint on the waterwall side of the top rail angles. One time shot to paint that metal.

The above is plenty of work for you to complete in a timely manner. You can paint the top rail angles on a long term schedule as needed. Note high chlorine areas degrade first. Areas like the ladder, and the side where people tend to hang around.


Ladder area where failure occurred at about year 30.






Closeup of same area (AKA ladder = high chlorine wet rail area). Note the long term top upper outside angle deterioration to paper thin thickness and ultimate failure. Not bad for 30 years with no maintenance of the paint. Like you said, it is too much work to get to to do proper rail maintenance.