1. Get a K2006, so you can test it yourself. It actually sounds like you may be one of the very few who have found a pool store that tests water accurately . . . but the only way to know is to DIY. http://pool9.net/tk/ (Please ignore the booklet and wheel in the kit, at least till this fall!).

2. Transported samples of pool water may not have the same TA or pH as the same water in the pool, due to heating / cooling / aeration. See http://pool9.net/alk-step/ for an (indirect) explanation. Basically, if you want an accurate test of pH you must collect the sample in a bottle leaving ZERO head space (ie, cap it underwater) and (b) keep the sample temperature stable.

3. Depending on how they tested, the testing error for CYA levels at the low end can range from plus-minus 10 ppm (K2006 with experienced user) to plus-minus 50 ppm (eye-balled test strips). I don't know your pool volume, so I don't know what your CYA should have been after you added 5# . On a 30k gal pool, 5# would add 20 ppm. BUT, it dissolves slowly. People often 'lose' it backwashing before it dissolves. This most often happens when your pump is timer operated.

Next time, dissolve it in a sock in the skimmer OR use dichlor (9 ppm CYA for ever 10 ppm FC). (I know that doesn't add up; not going to explain while I'm behind on new users.)

. . . membership updated.