Re: White Water Mold
These biofilms are resistant to chlorine and can need very high levels Is your pool vinyl, fiberglass, or plaster? If the latter two you will need chlorine up to around 50- 75 ppm and keep it there to kill them off, If you have a vinyl pool it gets trickier and requires a bit more work so as not to bleach the liner. You would need to turn off the SWCG and use a sodium bromide product and then shock to bring the chlorine up to about 10-12 ppm (bromine to about 22-27 ppm) since bromine is not stabilized by CYA this takes your 80 ppm CYA out of the equation and give you a higher activity for killing the biofilm and less likelyhood of bleaching out the liner (but some bleaching will still probably happen). You would need to keep the SWCG off and keep shocking for about a week or so of adding the sodium bromide until you have killed all the biofilms and see you are not losing sanitizer quickly during the day. Since inorganic bromine cannot be stabilized for loss from UV light the sun will quickly deplete your iso you will need to shock again to 'reactivate' the bromine. Once you find that your santizer levels are holding after the biofilms are gone it means that the bromine pool has converted back into a chlorine pool and you can turn the SWCG back on.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
Bookmarks