Hey Ben, I have the SP715XR50 which looks very similar to this one.
Are there any rebuild instructions around?
1.
2.
3.
4.
Last edited by PoolDoc; 05-04-2011 at 08:15 PM. Reason: fix title for Lisa ;-)
PoolDoc / Ben
Hey Ben, I have the SP715XR50 which looks very similar to this one.
Are there any rebuild instructions around?
Circa 1980 IG, VL, 36K Gal, DE, Chlorine
Luv & Luk, Ted
Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries
Well it probably needs a new gasket.
It is noisy, like it has air in it but no bubbles appear from the inlets.
When switched to rinse, I could see water rise from the notched area. It's hard to turn.
I read an old thread here and someone had to use wood blocks and a clamp to reassemble theirs.
So I'm looking to avoid any gotcha's.
I've seen the rebuild kits on the net but no instructions.
Circa 1980 IG, VL, 36K Gal, DE, Chlorine
Oops, I actually have the 710XR50.
Last edited by PoolDoc; 02-03-2012 at 11:39 AM. Reason: fix pics
Circa 1980 IG, VL, 36K Gal, DE, Chlorine
http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/Manual119.pdf
The above is a link to a PDF manual for the SP0710 vari-flo valve.
I hope it's close enough to mine so I can use it for repair.
An interesting note is the part about placing the valve in the winter position. Never have done that, always used the closed position. Probably why mine is noisy or shot.
More to come - I hope.
Circa 1980 IG, VL, 36K Gal, DE, Chlorine
Well the valve is rebuilt – kind of. I did not think to mark the handle position relative to the baffle and so it’s now backwards.
It functions perfectly but backwash is now filter.
Oh well, I need to take it apart again anyway. When I went to the parts place I missed to cover o-ring.
It was pretty easy to do. I only had to put the handle and stem assembly in a vise so to hammer out the handle pin with a drift pin. Reassembly required the vise and the death grip to get the pin back in but all in all it was not too bad.
But, the valve is still just as noisy as before. I am thinking the pump may be oversized. Too much flow for the valve. I can feel vibrations when I touch the valve and the noise sounds like, well, too much water being forced thru a valve. I wrapped it with a wet bed sheet that I use to catch old DE, and that dampened some of the high frequency noise.
So the saga continues.
Circa 1980 IG, VL, 36K Gal, DE, Chlorine
Sorry I forgot to mention the 'notch' on the multi - above the inlet/ outlet ports! However, you figured out that your orientation is 180* different from what the valve says (backwash is filter, recirc is waste, and closed is rinse) - you turned your SP710XR50 into a SP710X50, i.e. a sand filter multi LOL.
If you can get a decent price on the 715 (2") multi - it might be worth while to switch the valve and upgrade the filter pad piping to 2". Just a thought.
Last edited by waste; 06-24-2011 at 08:40 PM. Reason: Gotta learn how to spell :)
Luv & Luk, Ted
Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries
It's all on me for not checking the handle orientation.
I took pictures before I started and when I was ready to finish I checked the before pic and it all looked good.
But I had this strange feeling I was playing roulette.
No biggie, I'll fix it Sunday. Off to the lake tomorrow.
Oh, and the action is smoooth now.
Circa 1980 IG, VL, 36K Gal, DE, Chlorine
Bookmarks