I think my pump might be dead......

[farmgirl]

HAHAHA! Thank you Poconos....Yes, we have used the "rap" method before. I do not know if the pump will need to be replaced this year or not. It is only 4 years old, i think. How long do they usually last? Where can i get another 2 speed pump? They do not seem to be easy to find. Or am i just looking in the wrong places?

[badutahboy]

HAHAHA! Thank you Poconos....Yes, we have used the "rap" method before. I do not know if the pump will need to be replaced this year or not. It is only 4 years old, i think. How long do they usually last? Where can i get another 2 speed pump? They do not seem to be easy to find. Or am i just looking in the wrong places?

http://www.poolsupplies.com/parts/waterway-hiflo.asp

[matt4x4]

Dirty brushes will do that every time, since the pump's outside all summer in the elements, dirt and moisture is a common factor, after winter storage, likely some oxidation buildup happened on the brushes and when you first fire it up, it doesn't allow for the startup current needed to pass through since they are somewhat insulated by the buildup and oxidation.
What your husband did is the right thing to get it going, this will likely happen every spring, once it runs for a bit the contacts will clean off again and you should not have any issues over the summer, just remember it for next spring.
After 4 years, you probably should check the brush condition, they could be getting low, and replacing them before total wearing could save you a few $ in other repairs or complete pump replacement - brushes are cheap and really easy to do.

[farmgirl]

Hey! Thank you guys so much for the input! I think the pump is OK so far, but come closing time, will ask DH to check the brushes, and we will replace them if necessary. I knew nothing about that! Fortunately, we may be closing as late as November or perhaps even December this year. Heat pump due to be delivered later this week....YAY! I swam 1/2 mile tonight after work in 66 degree water, and it was actually refreshing! Would like to start swimming earlier in the year though. Thanks again for all the help.

[Poconos]

This has been mentioned somewhere before. There are no brushes in AC pump motors. The starter switch contacts can get dirty or crudded for a variety of reasons and normally all they need is a cleaning with fine sandpaper or preferrably a thin, flat file. Sandpaper can leave a gritty residue on the contact surface but usually is not an issue. I know some if not most contacts are made of silver which is soft. Silver is also a very good conductor and being soft it tends to 'form' to an irregular surface that results from slight arcing and pitting, thus extending the time between cleaning. Motors with brushes are AC/DC types and are typically used in devices like hair dryers, electric drills, vacuum cleaners including shop vacs, blenders and similar applications where high speed rotation, above 3450 RPM, and/or simple and cheap variable speed control is required. Going back to pump motors, the switch is usually designed so the centrifugal weight mechanism on the rotor does not even contact the switch once operating speed is reached, thus no wear.
Al
Edit: The oxidation mentioned above can be true for brushed motors. The brushes are a carbon material and the commutator, on the rotor, is copper which is easily oxidized and copper oxide is a lousy conductor of elextricity.

[matt4x4]

Thanks for the insight Poconos - I'm used to dealing with DC motors, so brushes are what I'm used to, either way, it's a dirty contact related issue, not a worn out scenario.
What I find works well for cleaning any type of contact is a variety of erasers.
If you're dealing with circuit board contacts such as PC cards, the red type of eraser found on the end of a pencil is best, it's not too abbarsive, buff the part after erasing with a cloth to remove the rubbery film it it leaves behind. For contacts that can take a bit more "abuse", the blue gritty ink erasers work really well, they're like a fine sandpaper. What's nice is erasers don't take off a whole lot of the coating, just enough to get things like new again without reducing the lifespan of the part significantly.

[Poconos]

The eraser trick works well for card edge connectors but the switch contacts are too close together. I posted a pic in the thread I referenced earlier in post #5 of this thread. Back end of a Hayward pump motor. A cheap set of jewlers files will work fine. Otherwise some 400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, available at auto stores, works well. Again, you don't need to grind any material off. Cut a strip of sandpaper, double it up as in double-sided, and pull it through a couple times with slight pressure on the contacts, and that should fix it.
Al