When using the Taylor WaterGram should I use my actual TA results or a CYA adjusted number? Should I even use the WaterGram or do the math myself?
Donnie
When using the Taylor WaterGram should I use my actual TA results or a CYA adjusted number? Should I even use the WaterGram or do the math myself?
Donnie
9000 Gallon Fiberglass IG / Sta-Rite pump,cartridge filter & heater / PoolPilot Dig 220-36 SWG / Testing w/K2006
You use the adjusted TA when you use the Taylor watergram. It comes out with almost exactly the same result as my spreadsheet which is more accurate than the traditional LSI so I think the watergram is great. On the other hand, you have to be pretty far out of balance before you get into a scaling or corrosion situation so don't sweat not being at "0.0" I wouldn't even have a second thought withing +/- 0.3 and most wouldn't care about +/- 0.5 and we have only started to see issues at 0.7 for one person and 1.0 for another.
This thread talks more about what people think about the index.
Richard
Thanks Richard. I assumed that would be correct but couldn't verify it. I'm glad to hear that you think the WaterGram is fairly accurate. You have always mentioned a corrosive property when refering to my water and after a little research I know what you are talking about. I'm well above -.5 and comfortable with that but always trying for perfection.
Donnie
9000 Gallon Fiberglass IG / Sta-Rite pump,cartridge filter & heater / PoolPilot Dig 220-36 SWG / Testing w/K2006
would you please check the accuracy of this calculator when you get some spare time?
http://www.aquachek.com/calculators....lculator&CID=4
Thanks!!
Donnie
9000 Gallon Fiberglass IG / Sta-Rite pump,cartridge filter & heater / PoolPilot Dig 220-36 SWG / Testing w/K2006
pH is the most important factor, followed by temperature, in determining if water is going to be corrosive or scaling. Keep you pH in line and realize that the hotter the water the faster a chemical reaction (corrosion or scaling) will occur and you should be fine. If your calcium is through the roof then you might want to compensate by running your TA low but it's still the pH that is really going to determine if you have major problems or not. If you let it fluctuate or get out of range you will. If you keep tabs on it and keep it in line you will minimize the risk of problems.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
Should I test for TDS? Wow! The Taylor K-1764 sells from $118 to $48 online.
Donnie
9000 Gallon Fiberglass IG / Sta-Rite pump,cartridge filter & heater / PoolPilot Dig 220-36 SWG / Testing w/K2006
I get somewhat different results, especially at higher temperatures such as those found in a spa (about 0.2 units different). The differences are small at normal temperatures -- within 0.1 units. Again, I wouldn't worry about such small differences. If you want an accurate calculator that pretty much matches the Taylor watergram (except for the highest temperatures well above spa temperatures where it is off by 0.1), then go to the end of the first post in this thread and download my spreadsheet in the PoolEquations.zip file. It calculates both the traditional LSI as well as the more accurate one that matches the Taylor watergram.
Richard
So I don't need to include TDS in the saturation index or do I use my 3600 ppm salt?
9000 Gallon Fiberglass IG / Sta-Rite pump,cartridge filter & heater / PoolPilot Dig 220-36 SWG / Testing w/K2006
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