HELPppppppppppp

[raptureready1953]

just clicking reply in email...thanks again

[raptureready1953]

total values

CL 0.6 I know this, this is my problem, how to keep level up so algea does not exist

ph is 7.8

TA 220
Hardness 350

CYA 30.

What do I do now? thanks again

[Spensar]

Right now, hammer it with chlorine. Your numbers are pretty good. You can bring the ph down a bit but right now the big thing is to kill off the invaders. Here's a thread about cleaning up once the algae is getting killed.

Your CYA is in a sweet spot, so liquid chlorine is great.

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...4819#post34819

[Spensar]

Here is the link to the sticky on busting up cleaning up green pools! This works!

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=3833

[RavenNS]

Vacuum to waste...
test & add chlorine frequently... liquid is fine for now as your cya is okay..
use bleach calculator & "best guess table" for keeping your pool at shock levels for a couple of days.

Good luck & within days you shall swim again

[raptureready1953]

Im sorry I dont get it...how many gal of clorox a day? One ok? Do I add in intervals? Like 2 to 3 c at a time? Vacuum three times a day...
Shock is to be 25? My tester doesnt go that high... If I keep it at shock level how does one swim in it? Its not suppose to be above 3 to swim... I am so confused..I have read and read and read...

Would it just be easier to dump the water, wash the pool and start over?

[RavenNS]

you can buy a better tester that does go that high... ( I even have some "guess" strips that go higher).

If you don't mind dumping, cleaning, & refilling... then yes, it probably is easier ( & faster)... especially since your TA is a bit high.

If not interested in going that route, then use the bleach calculator & test as frequently as you can.
It does take time. waiting is so hard

Good Luck

[Spensar]

You want to "shock the water, so put the full gallon in at once. Check your chlorine levels 2-3 times per day. I'd vacum and brush once a day.

If you have a drops tester that reads to about 3 ppm and turns the test water yellow, after shocking the test water should come out nice and dark brown, indicating that the chlorine levels are up there. If the test water is getting in the range of your test kit to read, add chlorine. 1.5 gallons will put in about 20 ppm so I would start with that level until the green clears up.

If you do dump and refill, it would be good to shock the new water in case any live algae is in any nooks or crannies. After that be sure to keep your pool at 2 ppm minimum if you CYA is low.

[ivyleager]

#1. Im sorry I dont get it...how many gal of clorox a day? One ok? Do I add in intervals? Like 2 to 3 c at a time? Vacuum three times a day... Shock is to be 25? My tester doesnt go that high...

#2. If I keep it at shock level how does one swim in it? Its not suppose to be above 3 to swim... I am so confused..I have read and read and read...

#3.Would it just be easier to dump the water, wash the pool and start over?

In order to test pool water at higher levels, use the shot glass method of dilution, a shot glass being 'one part'. Take one part pool water and one part distilled water, mix together, and use this mixture to test the chlorine. Take the chlorine reading and multiply by 2. If still too high to measure, take one part pool water and 2 parts distilled water, mix, then test, take chlorine reading, and multiply by 3.

Now, to answer your questions:

1. The amount of chlorine you'll need to add depends upon what residual chlorine you have in your pool. Test the water at least 2x day. You'll most likely need to add chlorine after each test to bring it back up to shock levels. For your pool shock level being 15ppm. See below chart:

Ben's 'best guess' chlorine guide. Use the info in this chart to help you figure out what levels of chlorine you need to maintain in your pool based on the amount of CYA (cyanuric acid, also called stabilizer) that you have in your pool. (FC = free chlorine)

Stabilizer(CYA) . . . Min. FC . . . . Max FC . . . 'Shock' FC
=> 0 ppm . . . . . . . .1 ppm . . . . . 3 ppm . . . . 10 ppm
=> 10 - 20 ppm . . . .2 ppm . . . . . 5 ppm . . . . 12 ppm
=> 30 - 50 ppm . . . .3 ppm . . . . . 6 ppm . . . . 15 ppm
=> 60 - 90 ppm . . . .5 ppm . . . . . 10 ppm . . .. 20 ppm
=> 100 - 200 ppm . . 8 ppm . . . . . 15 ppm . . .. 25 ppm

Now, one gallon of bleach will raise the chlorine in your pool to 13, which is pretty close to 15 (shock level). If testing reveals ZERO chlorine in your pool (which may occur due to the algae), then you'll need to add a smidge more. To add the bleach, IF YOU DO NOT HAVE AN INLINE CHLORINATOR, then pour all at once SLOWLY through the skimmer. Or, if you wish, pour around the perimeter of the pool. KEEP FILTER ON 24/7. When I had my first algae bloom at start up years ago, I never vacuumed; brushed and brushed so algae would get filtered, then backwashed about 2-3x/day.

2. Well, if the pool is green, why would you want to swim in it anyway? I keep my chlorine around 5ppm as my CYA is 70ppm. Perfectly fine. My suits do not fade. I do not glow in the dark. If your pool clears and while waiting for the chlorine to come back down, go ahead and swim if chlorine is <10ppm, just wear an old suit. Remember, the free chlorine level is dependent upon the CYA level. Think of it this way, the CYA binds to the chlorine, making higher levels not as toxic. If you have zero CYA and a chlorine of 10, then that would be very high, indeed.

3. Think of this as a learning process.

Good luck.

CaryB