Nobody knows! Help Is it phosphates, water to hard.......

[PoolDoc]

Clean your filter frequently. It damages cartridges to have a big pump run against them when they are stopped up.

Ideally, you should have at least two cartridges so you can rotate them.

Longer term, you'll need the K-2006 kit + an OTO/phenol red kit (like the HTH 6-way). Normally, you'll only use the OTO/phenol red, but you have to have the K2006 and use it periodically, to keep things on track.

It is much, MUCH easier to keep a pool on track, than it is to clean-up when it 'goes off the rails'. The upside is, doing it yourself -- the RIGHT way -- is much, much cheaper than using pool stores, so you'll fairly quickly save-back the money spent on test kits.

[meme2]

ok, I have slowed the pump down the white stuff fell to bottom and I have vacuumed on waste, water has cleared up.

My question to you is what is the weekly maintenance plan?

+ My PH is still a little high do I need to bring down or leave? (8.0)
+ I assume that the ionizer will still work with the chemicals ill be using.
+ So just need chlorine and ?
+ Leave the pump on low always?

Lots of questions sorry just want to do it right, with what I was using I only shocked once a week and put clearifier in every 2 weeks and the ionizer did the algae.

[PoolDoc]

Hm-mh. What you are describing is the floc working the way it many 'floccing agents' SHOULD work.

Did the label or the pool guy not tell you to turn the pump off and let things 'settle', after adding floc?

Anyhow, glad it is clearing up. Is the water clear?

+ My PH is still a little high do I need to bring down or leave? (8.0)

Your pH should be between 7.2 & 7.8.

+ I assume that the ionizer will still work with the chemicals ill be using.

Not necessarily. You need to post your pool info: gallons, pool type, filter type, pump type, ionizer type.

+ So just need chlorine and ?

Chlorine, pH control, stabilizer, for sure. Other stuff depending on info I don't have yet.

+ Leave the pump on low always?

Unless you have a specific reason to put it on high, yes. Again, I need more info about the pool.

[meme2]

yes the water is clear. you should have my pool info in the post back up on the 4th of July. The pool has been off for days at a time after the floc was put in at least a month ago.
15X30 (12,500. gal)?
Aqua 2.0 hp pump with ionizer (simple salt)
120sq in. black diamond filter

[PoolDoc]

I can find t he Black Diamond filter information, but the description "Aqua 2.0 hp pump with ionizer" doesn't bring up anything specific unless this is it:

https://www.thepoolfactory.com/aquap...efc-motor.html

Is your pump a 2 speed pump? If so, you should always, ALWAYS run on 2-speed unless you have a specific need to do otherwise. You will get better filtration, better life out of your cartridge AND save substantially on electrical costs.

Ionizers aren't really compatible with chlorination. Copper stains, but copper staining can be avoided IF there's no chlorination AND the pH is kept low-ish. Add chlorine, and let the pH go up and you get stains.

BUT . . . many ionizers don't stain, because they don't actually work. (ie, they don't deliver any copper).

[meme2]

yes that is the pump that we have. I bought the pool from East Cost Leisure in New Port News Va. Told us that the product that we was using the latest and greatest with no chlorination. I start the year out with a Prime (Simple Salt water system) I can't tell you whats in it doesn't have a ingredient label. After I prime it I only have to shock once a week (Simple Blue) Simple salt water system Shimmer, which has calcium hypochlorite 47.6%, sodium tetraborate pentahydrate 20.0% and other ingredients 32.4%, then every 2 weeks put in (simple Blue) simple salt water system Vivid concentrated natural enzyme clarifier it doesn't have an ingredient label either. When I opened the pool this year and fill the pool with our well water more then usual (pumped a lot off of cover over winter) they told us that it was could because of the Phospates, thats when every thing went down hill. NO body there would tell you the same thing to do. I think we over dosed the pool with chemicals (just my opinion) so I decided after much research and finding you I would try doing it with your help. Don't want to depend on them NO more, So if I need to change something that I'm using I will. If I need to do away with the ionizer and use a liquid I will. So chlorine Im not use to but Im will to change if need be. I don't want stains either I have read about them. I appreciate your help!

[PoolDoc]

OK.

I had to do some research.

It looks like the pump and filter may be from http://ecoaquapro.com/, and your 'sanitation system' is from http://mysimplesalt.com/, which looks like a re-branded and re-labeled version of "Permasalt" copper based system, discussed here http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php/16701

Let's operate with the assumption that the pump and filter are OK. But the MySimpleSalt is NOT.

Stains can be a problem any time copper is involved. Fortunately, the shocking and floccing process you have ALREADY gone through has probably removed most, or even all of the copper.

Let me give you a list of steps to follow . . . and then some questions I need you to answer.

1. Keep your pump on LOW speed, running 24/7

2. Test your water, post the result, and TELL ME WHAT YOU USED TO TEST!

3. Add 1/4 gallon of 10% Walmart pool bleach in the evening any evening the chlorine is below 2 ppm

4. Take pictures of your pump, your pool, the simply salt system and the LABELS of the shipper product. I particularly need to see the EPA Est # listings. You can email them to poolforum@gmail.com, text them to (423) 300-6560, or use Imgur to post them in this thread (instructions: http://pool9.net/postpix/ )

5. Tell me if you are on a tight budget or not. The easiest and fastest way to clean up and get things running smoothly will require you to buy some stuff now (mostly from Amazon) . . . and save later. But if your budget is tight, you can put in some extra elbow grease, take a little more risk of stains and algae, and spend less now. For example, removing phosphates WILL make things easier . . . later. But it costs $$'s now.

6. Tell me what you know about your well water. Well water is often -- but not always -- a problem for pools. It depends on what's in the water. Do you have a softener or water treatment system? Is the pool filled via that system, or through a bypass? Does the well water have iron or manganese or sulfur in it?