Pentair IntelliChlor IC60 reduced output?

[PoolDoc]

I'm glad you were able to find the problem, but I'm still amazed that you've gotten 5 years out of an IC60.

I was trying to recall dates; it's possible that the power supplies I had were older than yours, and that Pentair upgraded them before you purchased yours. Or, maybe your IC60 is turned down enough so that there was never that much load on the power supply: mine ran continuously during the day.

Check the steps out with TWO things: vitamin C tablets and chlorine. Try the tabs FIRST. If a few Vit C tabs lighten or remove the brown . . . it's iron or manganese (only if you are on a well). Chlorine will 'set' the iron stains, so you only want to use it SECOND. Either pour bleach on the top step, or scatter a bit of chlorine powder. If that clears the stains, they are organic.

Disappearing CYA suggests 'organic', but STILL do the chlorine test SECOND.

Complex algae/bacteria biofilms -- colored slime -- are both common and horrendously complex. (Think of a microbial NBA squad, where different players (species) of algae and bacteria can taken on assigned functional roles!). Under certain conditions, these biofilms can rapidly 'eat' (metabolize) stabilizer or CYA . . . and then poop out the results.

Depending on the players in the biofilm -- and how much you interfere by using sanitizers -- one level will 'eat' the poop of the previous level. But at some point the remnants end up in your pool. Best case, the process is taken to the very end, and nitrogen gas is released. Worst case, ammonia or even urea end up in your pool in LARGE amounts.

Testing for "combined chlorine" will tell . . . if you have a K2006. Otherwise, you cannot get sufficiently accurate results to tell much, except that CCs are present.

This whole scenario can get pretty complicated, and the best 'next step' depends on what's there.

Post your test results from YOUR testing. If you have only test strips, go get a HTH 6-Way Test Kit (~$23) (made by Taylor) from Amazon or Walmart . . . to start.

Then, take your water to a dealer. The computer readers 'do' test strips better than you can and will give you a better idea on CCs present. But the CYA test in the 6-way is MUCH better than what a dealer will do. Be careful: that kit has enough reagent for just 3 CYA tests, so read the instructions before you start.

But, you'll almost certainly need the Taylor K2006 if you don't already have one. And if you want to 'get it all' now, you'll also need refills for the CYA test: 16 oz bottle of R-0013 and Disposable plastic lab funnels. Try to order from Amazon rather than a 3rd party: Amazon handles shipping and warranties MUCH better.

Regardless, post test results as soon as you have them.

[pettinej]

I purchased your old test kit so I look like a mad scientist when I do my tests. I also have extra R-0013.... Ill measure later tonight and let you know. I don't know for sure if the IC60 is working because I cleaned it but need a new cartridge filter first.... I will also try the tabs but I am not on a well.

[pettinej]

One more note. I had to disconnect my SWCG because it is still not functioning properly. went back to bleach, and did the stair test. It was organic! Next decision is to purchase another IC60 or go with one of your recommendations. Thanks for the help.

[PoolDoc]

One thing I didn't think of: you want to make fairly sure your power supply is functional, before purchasing a new IC60 unit. Are the lights coming on, on the electrode unit?