All of the above.
1. Expensive pools here go on ridges or mountains. Your costs will be lower, for that aspect.
2. Building a durable zero edge requires a lot more care than I've seen done. But that doesn't mean it's uncommon in your area.
3. Zero edge pools (or any pool with multiple water levels) only work right, if there are no cracks or expansion joint problems. It is possible to build small-ish pools (like yours) as monolithic structures. That tends to eliminate shell cracks and/or joint problems.
4. The other thing with zero edges, is they only work right if the edge is perfectly level (within 1/16" across the length).
5. Most pools crack AND move. Even if you eliminate the cracking, the moving is a problem. Most residential pool guys have a "skimmer" design + experience mindset: Level is within a 1" and it's no problem of the pool moves another 1" in 10 years. Even commercial pool installers, who are building with gutters (1/4" corner to corner) are sloppy. Actually building to maintain 1/16" over a decade is outside the skill set of any builders I've encountered.
6. I've designed, but never had fabricated, an adjustable stainless edge for use on gutters or zero edge pools as a retrofit, or when it's not possible guarantee no settling. (And actually, I'd have to find another fab shop: the foreman I worked with for years died, and his replacement can't touch his skills.) Regardless, it would be preferable to build a fully stable shell if that's possible. I'd guess your seismic guys can tell if if the structure will be stable to 1/16" over a 10 year period.
8. I've never, ever, seen a well designed piping layout -- commercially or residentially, on site or in pictures. The pipe spaghetti you describe is a function of "I don't know how to do it right, so I did it messy."
- Proper pipe design takes into account WHO will be servicing the pool. For example, in my world, I had to consider whether a 5'1" 110lb guard would have to operate a particular valve. Most zero edge piping is too complex for the typical pool guy to really understand . . . and because designs aren't standard (at least here) they can't 'learn them' either.
- Proper pipe design is at least somewhat intuitive.
- Proper pipe design avoids things like prime-killing air locked suction bubbles. (Pool builder whine: "The water will be under PRESSURE! Why do I need to worry about grading the pipe!) On many expensive pools it's nearly impossible to prime the pumps.
- etc, etc.
9. Pool builders get major financial incentives to stick with a single brand . . . but single brand installs ALWAYS compromise quality. The Hayward SuperPump is an ancient design, that is super reliable and very easy to prime. But the Hayward trichlor feeder is awful. StaRite's entire line is suspect, but their split case DE filter isn't bad. Pentair's saltwater chlorine units are terrible (none of them are great), but their sand filters are possible the simplest and best. And so on.
10. Electronic controls that cannot easily be bypassed are ALWAYS a mistake, as is failing to install redundant lightning protection. (At least, in the East. Not sure about N Calif.)
That may not be true, there. California, S. Texas, and Florida are the high density pool markets, and have idiosyncratic pricing and designs. Don't assume that I'm correct, but you can be sure you will not find a reliable answer online. Ask locally.I will also search the site for answers to questions like, "why would a 20x30 pool with no spa and no retaining walls cost $100K to build?"
Plan now.- I've heard that's a particular challenge with negative edge 'infinity' pools - and I guess I'll have to plan to deal with that later if it occurs in spite of the engineering prescriptions.
Have to see some photos of the site, and a site sketch before I can comment beyond what I have!I am here to learn how to spend my limited budget wisely, so I don't end up in the "90% of consumers" camp you call out. I don't have any plans to 'bling' this pool; the goal is elegance through simple, clean lines that let the site and the view speak for themselves. My question about pipes is really a generic design concern: I will create a pipe trough on the east and south sides of the pool
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