I wrote a reply, and then apparently deleted it by accident. I don't know if you saw it by email. Anyhow, I'm trying again.
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IG pool => 20,000 gallons = PF 6
Obviously, you need to get your pH up. With most kits or strips, a test result of 6.8 does NOT mean your pH is 6.8; it means it is 6.8 OR LOWER. It could be 4.8!
Your NORMAL borax dose is below. But you need to add borax FOUR at time or soda ash TWO boxes at a time.
Soda ash (regular pH DOWN) is cheaper, but raises carbonate alkalinity which you may not need. Borax has no undesired side effects, it's preferable if you are not on a tight budget.
Regardless, add the chemicals SLOWLY to a skimmer while the pump is ON and water is FLOWING through the skimmer.
Leave the PUMP ON. Retest pH after 6 to 8 hours. Continue to use the non-standard doses till your pH is ABOVE 6.8.
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- [B]
- ASAP, get an HTH 6 Way test kit from Walmart or Amazon
- Report pH & chlorine levels today, in a forum post HERE.
- Report exact chemical names (read the bags) of the "shock" and other chemicals added.
- Report stabilizer (CYA) levels as soon as possible. (NOTE: HTH kit only tests CYA 3x! Read instructions carefully!)
- For now, STOP adding ANY chemicals except bleach and borax OR muriatic acid, as needed.
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Testing
- ASAP: HTH 6 Way test kit from Walmart or Amazon
- SOON order a K2006 from Amazon
- LATER, order CYA reagent refills: 16 oz R-0013 and [B]Disposable plastic lab funnels/B]
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Reporting:
Once you have your pH up a bit, and have the kits, report the results PLUS water source, equipment (heater?), and presence/absence of aeration (waterfall, spillover, etc.)
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Chemicals (the RIGHT Stuff!)
Chlorine:
- 10% Pool bleach - Walmart Pool-Essentials-Chlorinating-Liquid
- 6% PLAIN Walmart household bleach
- Dichlor - 55% chlorine / 50% CYA - [ Sams 50# Dichlor bucket
- Dichlor - 55% chlorine / 50% CYA - Sams 24 x 1# Dichlor bags ]
- Trichlor - 90% chlorine / 56% CYA [ Sams 40# Trichlor bucket ]
- Cal hypo - 68% chlorine / 46% calcium hardness
Other:
- Borax - 20-Mule-Team-Borax-Box
(NOT Boraxo detergent!)- Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda
- Muriatic Acid - Lowes / Crown-1-Gallon-Muriatic-Acid
(Read muriatic acid instructions linked in my blue signature box!)
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Basic DOSES for YOUR pool:
1 gallon of 6% bleach ADDS 3 ppm of chlorine
1 gallon of 10% bleach ADDS 5 ppm of chlorine
1 lb bag of dichlor ADDS 3 ppm of chlorine and 3 ppm of stabilizer
pH DOWN dose (pH above 7.8): 1/2 gal of muriatic acid
pH DOWN dose (pH at or below7.8): 1/4 gal of muriatic acid
READ handling muriatic acid safely page linked in my blue signature box!
pH UP dose (pH at or above 7.2): 1 box of borax
pH UP dose (pH below 7.2): 2 box of borax
When adjusting pH, add a dose WHILE the pump is running. Wait a day, retest and dose again if needed.
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IMPORTANT Warning:
Until you are an expert at deciphering chemical names, and can distinguish sodium hydrogen carbonate from sodium dichloroisocyanurate, and so on
AVOID THESE POOL CHEMICALS:
- Clorox brand POOL chemicals
- Arm & Hammer brand POOL chemicals (A & H baking soda + washing soda are fine!)
- HTH brand POOL chemicals (Dry-Tec, made by HTH/Arch, are often fine)
- Pool Time brand POOL chemicals
- United Chemical brand POOL chemicals
- All "Multi-function" chemicals
- All 3-in-1, 4-in-1, 5-in-1 chemicals
- Flavored bleach: scents, thickened, colored, 'gentler', etc: PLAIN bleach ONLY!!!!
- Stain removers (most add phosphates = algae fertilizer)
- Non-fuming muriatic acid (unless you KNOW it is only diluted with water!)
- Most algaecides (polyquat is OK. Copper is OK if you don't mind green hair)
- Almost all 'boosters'.
- Ammonia based products: Yellow Out, Green to Clean, etc.
- Bromide based products: Yellow Treat, etc.
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