Thank you for the quick response, I will get on it and post the results back here!
Thank you for the quick response, I will get on it and post the results back here!
update:
Well I received my K -2006 kit and started trying to figure out how all the tests work. I did exactly as you instructed for the CYA test and got some distilled water from the store and I mixed 3/4 cup distilled and 1/4 cup pool water. The dot was no longer visible half way between the 50 and 60 mark, so 55 x 4 = 220 CYA. I added the 2 gal of plain bleach and as you mentioned the total chlorine came back pretty high.
OK. That's high, but not unmanageable.
Your safest bet is to operate using either bleach (aka liquid chlorine) or unblended calcium hypochlorite (68+% available chlorine).
1. If your pool water is clear, maintain chlorine levels = 5% of your CYA => 11 ppm
2. If you have any TRACE of algae, maintain chlorine levels = 10% => 22 ppm
3. If your pool has significant algae OR if the algae gets worse go to 15% => 33 ppm
4. If your pool is green, 20% => ~50 ppm
In Florida, you may be able to find "liquid chlorine" or bleach at 10 - 12% strength economically. Otherwise use PLAIN 8% concentration Walmart bleach.
Test your calcium and alkalinity levels. If they are low-ish, you can used calcium hypochlorite, if you can find that economically.
PoolDoc / Ben
I should add, you CAN swim at all those levels . . . safely.
Bleach baths at 50 - 100 ppm chlorine with NO CYA are recommended every day by dermatologists, even for pediatric eczema.
But, swimwear is more sensitive to chlorine than skin, so if you have to take levels above 30 ppm, wear old swimsuits!
Keep in mind, that with CYA = 200+ your EFFECTIVE chlorine levels are far, far lower than the indicated levels.
One more thing: the very high CYA levels will mean you can probably add chlorine as little as 1x per week, instead of daily.
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