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Thread: Advice Needed

  1. #1
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    Default Advice Needed

    Hi Experts,

    I would really like to convert to a saltwater pool. Would appreciate any advice or recommendations you have for a good system. My pool is 38 ft long by approximately 22 ft wide and is Lagoon shape. Six foot deep end to 3 foot shallow.

    Thanks!!!
    :D New and Need Help ;)

  2. #2
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    1. I don't recommend salt systems in most cases. Their benefits are oversold and the reliability of the units is very poor. Expect to spend the cost of full replacement every THREE years. If you go with the Pentair product, expect TWO years.

    2. Salt water corrodes . . . aluminum in coping and ladder anchors; steel in rebar and diving board bases and anchors; and even some stone. If you have ANY metallic device in your piping -- heater, motorized valve, whatever -- do NOT THINK about using salt till you've verified corrosion resistance.

    3. MOST pools over a decade old are NOT salt-compatible, but the problems that result may be hidden for a few years.

    4. The ONLY real benefit of a salt system is that of a RELIABLE chlorine feed system that works when you are gone for a few days.

    5. Phosphate removal -- done right -- can accomplish as much in some, but not all, cases. And, it has no bad side effects. Downside: you'll have to experiment in a trial with me, since the methods and materials taught/sold by the pool industry generally do NOT work, for a variety of complicated reasons, and I have not 'tuned' my approach to residential pools yet. IF you qualify (no major leaks, no well-water, willing and able to use a K2006 kit, etc. ) then we can talk. First year cost for a pool your size will be around $400. Probably you will have left over phosphate remover, but that's one of the things I've got to test. Money-back guarantee BUT YOU must be conscientious about weekly testing and logging.

    My approach is 60% method and 40% material, so if you are hit or miss with your pool, it wouldn't be a good option for either of us.

    An additional thought: if you are looking for a 'fire-n-forget' treatment system AND are willing to pay the price, salt systems probably come closer to that than anything else currently available. Just be prepared to 'pay the piper' down the road!

    Once I've worked out all the details, phosphate control may accomplish as much, but . . . I haven't worked out those details yet.
    Last edited by PoolDoc; 06-15-2018 at 07:44 PM.

  3. #3
    lstinthot is offline PF Supporter Thread Analyst lstinthot 0
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    Default Re: Advice Needed

    Why does well water disqualify the phosphate control system?

    I am entertaining a salt system as we will be away from the house a lot this summer. Looking for something that is easier to maintain as we are away. I have been doing the chlorine method for quite some time and its is easy when we are here.

    We are 36,000 gallons concrete pool.

    Adding a robot to help clean, the Polaris 380 died along with the booster pump. Going with a 2018 Dolphin Premier Robotic In-Ground Pool Cleaner.

    Mike
    ~36,000g IG gunite -- 2Hp Pentair UltraFlow filter pump - replaced with 2 speed 1 1/2 HP ultraquite pump -- 3/4 HP vacuum booster pump -- DE filter --K-2006 test kit

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Advice Needed

    Phosphate removal works in well water filled pools, just like it does in any other pool. But well water often contains dissolved metals which lead to stains, which lead to the use of phosphate based (phosphonate) stain control products. Virtually every effective pool stain control product contains chemicals that ultimately become phosphates.

    Basically, on pools with staining problems, I just can't trust the owners to NEVER use a stain control product.

    But, you've been here a long time, and have a K2006. If you're interested, I'll work with you IF your well is a limestone or karst well OR if you have a certified lab test showing no metals.

    But keep in mind, phosphate control is VERY dependent on consistent testing, treatment and follow-through. Also, if you don't do phosphate removal correctly, it has ZERO value. What most people seem to find hard to understand is that removing SOME phosphates is completely useless if you don't actually achieve levels below 0.1 ppm phosphates!

    Over time, once we know your water, your chem use patterns, and so on, the treatment interval could probably stretch to 2 weeks between test & dose events.



    Salt is just a chlorine delivery system . . . which I presume you know. Before you get one, carefully inspect your pool for elements that may be corroded by salt: heaters, aluminum ladder anchors, any sort of steel deck anchor (slide, d-board, etc), some types of natural stone.
    Last edited by PoolDoc; 06-15-2018 at 07:44 PM.

  5. #5
    lstinthot is offline PF Supporter Thread Analyst lstinthot 0
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    Default Re: Advice Needed

    I have not added any kind of stain control to our pool since we have been here (7 years) and don't really plan on it. I am OK with the spots here or there. Its an outside pool in a natural setting. I can work on getting the water tested. Our well is a bored well, concrete liner.

    I will look up a testing center and see what I can come up with.

    Mike
    ~36,000g IG gunite -- 2Hp Pentair UltraFlow filter pump - replaced with 2 speed 1 1/2 HP ultraquite pump -- 3/4 HP vacuum booster pump -- DE filter --K-2006 test kit

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    Default Re: Advice Needed

    Actually, if it's a limestone well, it should be OK. Do you know what kind of rock the well is in?

    The liner doesn't matter, except to keep out water or materials from strata other than the one the well terminates in. What matter is what the water is running through on the way to the bottom of your well.

  7. #7
    lstinthot is offline PF Supporter Thread Analyst lstinthot 0
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    Default Re: Advice Needed

    I do not know what the soil system is the water goes through on the way to our well. We are located in central Virginia. Lots of red clay for yards. Not sure what's down deep.
    ~36,000g IG gunite -- 2Hp Pentair UltraFlow filter pump - replaced with 2 speed 1 1/2 HP ultraquite pump -- 3/4 HP vacuum booster pump -- DE filter --K-2006 test kit

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    Default Re: Advice Needed

    Then an analysis, with phosphate, nitrate, iron, manganese, etc levels would be a necessary starting point.
    Last edited by PoolDoc; 06-15-2018 at 07:44 PM.

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