1. I don't recommend salt systems in most cases. Their benefits are oversold and the reliability of the units is very poor. Expect to spend the cost of full replacement every THREE years. If you go with the Pentair product, expect TWO years.
2. Salt water corrodes . . . aluminum in coping and ladder anchors; steel in rebar and diving board bases and anchors; and even some stone. If you have ANY metallic device in your piping -- heater, motorized valve, whatever -- do NOT THINK about using salt till you've verified corrosion resistance.
3. MOST pools over a decade old are NOT salt-compatible, but the problems that result may be hidden for a few years.
4. The ONLY real benefit of a salt system is that of a RELIABLE chlorine feed system that works when you are gone for a few days.
5. Phosphate removal -- done right -- can accomplish as much in some, but not all, cases. And, it has no bad side effects. Downside: you'll have to experiment in a trial with me, since the methods and materials taught/sold by the pool industry generally do NOT work, for a variety of complicated reasons, and I have not 'tuned' my approach to residential pools yet. IF you qualify (no major leaks, no well-water, willing and able to use a K2006 kit, etc. ) then we can talk. First year cost for a pool your size will be around $400. Probably you will have left over phosphate remover, but that's one of the things I've got to test. Money-back guarantee BUT YOU must be conscientious about weekly testing and logging.
My approach is 60% method and 40% material, so if you are hit or miss with your pool, it wouldn't be a good option for either of us.
An additional thought: if you are looking for a 'fire-n-forget' treatment system AND are willing to pay the price, salt systems probably come closer to that than anything else currently available. Just be prepared to 'pay the piper' down the road!
Once I've worked out all the details, phosphate control may accomplish as much, but . . . I haven't worked out those details yet.
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