The Green Pool

[Mustang3944]

You will need to get some more calcium to protect what's left of the plaster.

The most important thing right now,as you know, is the chlorine.

Now that I can see it the plaster looks to be in good shape and feels smooth were I can get to it, keeping my fingers crossed that is the case through out the pool.

Yes my biggest concerns so far have been chlorine, ph and alk. Added roughly another pound of borax after those test result to bring the ph up just a bit more.

[CarlD]

If your CYA is 100 and your pool is full of algae, you need to increase your FC to at least 25ppm to kill the algae.

[Mustang3944]

Algae is dead Carl not a spot of green anywhere.

[CarlD]

Good! Then you can go on to filtering/vacuuming the dead algae out, and balancing your chemistry.

[Watermom]

If you have a K2005 kit, you can pick up the add on kit (K1515) that will give you the one test (FAS-DPD) that the K2006 kit has that your kit does not. That test gives you the ability to test chlorine levels higher than 5ppm which is the limit on your kit. You can get the K1515 (or 1515C) through this link:> http://pool9.net/tk/

(Until your registration is completed, you won't be able to see the rest of the forum or follow that link while you are logged in. So, copy it and paste it into a browser window after you first log out.)

[jlaar007]

If you have a K2005 kit, you can pick up the add on kit (K1515) that will give you the one test (FAS-DPD) that the K2006 kit has that your kit does not. That test gives you the ability to test chlorine levels higher than 5ppm which is the limit on your kit. You can get the K1515 (or 1515C) through this link:> http://pool9.net/tk/

(Until your registration is completed, you won't be able to see the rest of the forum or follow that link while you are logged in. So, copy it and paste it into a browser window after you first log out.)

Not to get picky, but the K2005 chlorine(TC,FC) test goes to 10----so diluted it would go to 20.

[PoolDoc]

Not to get picky, but the K2005 chlorine(TC,FC) test goes to 10----so diluted it would go to 20.

It goes to 10, nominally. But 9 of 10 people cannot distinguish a 5 ppm FC level from a 10 ppm FC level, using that kit. Diluted, you're adding additional error, so now you can't distinguish 7 ppm from 25 ppm!

Additionally, if the FC = ~15 - 20, you'll read maybe 2 - 5 ppm. If the FC > 25 ppm, you'll read FC=0. Very *experienced* pool operators can recognize those errors . . . but then we don't deal with very experienced pool operators. Put plainly, DPD color match testing is INFERIOR in accuracy, and VERY INFERIOR in reliablity, to OTO tests.

Many of the criticisms of OTO testing seem to have originated as a sales ploy by Palintest, back in the day when the DPD test was still patented and very profitable.

Pool owners with K2005 kits need to buy (a) a cheap OTO kit (quick & bomb proof -- if not very accurate -- chlorine testing to 50 ppm) and (b) a K1515 DPD-FAS add-on (accurate FC testing to 50 ppm).