Test Results are in :(((

[BigDave]

I'm pretty sure CarlD warned you earlier, but, I'll say it again since you are using trichlor and cal-hypo at the same time. Don't let undissolved trichlor and cal-hypo near each other.

[MattinAZ]

@ Carl & Big Dave thanks for the heads up on cal hypo and trichlor.

As of today I have actually stopped using trichlor as my test results are ;

FC 1.6 ( this after staying under the sun whole day and last dichlor was added 48 hrs ago )
CC 0.1 ppm
pH 7.8
TA 100 ppm (down from 120 five days ago)
CA 170 ppm (up from 140 ppm 5 days ago, it is rising nicely, Doheny's CalHypo speeded up the process, used 3 lbs in 5 days)
CYA 35 ppm (black dot disappeared after 40 ppm but before 30 ppm so I am taking the average)

As of today I have stopped the trichlor, I was very surprised how quickly Pool Brands tablets was adding CYA. I have used probably about 10ea 3 inch tablets to bring it to 35 from 0, and it was not adding much chlorine. Now I guess I know why my CYA shot upto 200 pm before I drained the pool.

Plan is to continue with dichlor until I reach somewhere around 200 - 220 ppm CA and then to switch to bleach and add other Bs as needed. I will be checking chlorine and pH daily with dye based test and running full test about twice weekly.

I hope I can keep the pool in balance.

Thanks for all the help I've received from this forum, I really appreciate it.

Matt

[CarlD]

I think you mean cal-hypo, not di-chlor, as di-chlor adds CYA faster than Tri-chlor. Di-Chlor does NOT add calcium, Cal-hypo does. If your CYA goal was higher (like for a SWCG or southern clime), the tri-chlor would be good as it would lower your pH as well.

FYI: Tri-chlor add about 6ppm of CYA for every 10ppm of FC, while Di-chlor add about 9ppm of CYA for every 10ppm of FC, but tri-chlor is much more acidic.

[MattinAZ]

I did mean CalHypo )

Since I'm southern Climate (I'm in S. Arizona) what should be my ideal CYA level ? Is 35 ppm too low ?

Thanks
Matt