Test Results are in :(((

[CarlD]

Be VERY careful with the power washer and use it on the lowest setting. I've seen mine actually strip the stain and even rip wood off my cedar fencing and decking--you do NOT want to damage your finish! Personally, I'd rather see you brush the pool with a pool brush.

When you refill, Tri-Chlor tabs and Di-Chlor powder WILL add CYA to your water--Di-chlor will add both chlorine and CYA faster than the Tri-chlor tabs.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think 1 lb of Di-chlor SHOULD give you an initial FC of about 6.6ppm to 10,000 gallons of water. (which means roughly 6ppm of CYA). I'm basing this on Chem_Geek's post that 24.1 oz of Di-Chlor will add 10ppm of FC to 10,000 gallons.

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...ight=chem_geek

[PoolDoc]

PF of a 10k pool is 12.

Available chlorine of dichlor is usually either 61% or 55%. Assuming 61%, 1lb x 0.61 x 12 = 7.3 ppm FC per lb of dichlor in a 10k gal pool.

Dichlor adds about 9 ppm of CYA for every 10 ppm of chlorine, so 7.32 x 0.9 = 6.6 ppm FC

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Each pound of 61% dichlor will add 7.3 ppm of chlorine and 6.6 ppm of CYA to a 10K pool

[chem geek]

Pretty much all Dichlor you get in pool stores is the dihydrate that has 55% Available Chlorine (pure Dichlor dihydrate would be 55.4%, but product is usually around 99% pure). The anhydrous form of Dichlor (if pure) has 64.5% Available Chlorine but it's not normally sold because as shown in this post, the anhydrous Dichlor is a Class 3 oxidizer similar to Cal-Hypo at > 50% concentration while the dihydrate is a Class 1 oxidizer similar to Trichlor. So to avoid the additional storage, shipping, and warning requirements associated with a Class 3 oxidizer, the dihydrate form is pretty much the only one sold for pools and spas.

So Carl's calculation is correct that 1 pound of Dichlor (dihydrate) in 10,000 gallons would yield 6.6 ppm FC and 6.0 ppm CYA.

[Pappy]

Here's the thread with the test kit videos,

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...eos-on-YouTube

Good luck!