Thanks for the fast reply, I have always suspected that the whole bromine is better thing was a lot of hot air because I've never really noticed a difference between swimming in the bromine pool or in chlorine ones with the exception of a couple commercial ones that I suspect were being run with higher chlorine levels.

The pool is actually on the side of a hill so it sits well above (20 feet or so I would guess) the wetlands (Miles River, "river" being a bit generous a term perhaps) so I don't think the water table would be an issue.

I have a couple follow-up questions:

1. So just to be sure I understand, I can use the K2006C kit FAS-DPD test or an OTO based test and just multiply whatever drop/color based result I get by 2.25 to get the Bromine ppm?

2. When I questioned my parents about why the switched to the oxygen shock the answer I got was that they thought it was safer and when they had used chlorine shock in the past it turned the water brown. I read the answer to the safety part of the question on your site already but is there anything that might be in the pool that could react with the chlorine to turn the water brown or cause brown staining? Is it possible that they are confused and something else they added turned the water brown?

3. I'm slowly making my way through reading you site as time allows so my apologies if this next question is answered there. If I start using bleach or some other chlorine to shock how much should I be using per dose? Also, is there any type of chlorine that I should NOT use to shock the bromine pool because it has something else in it?

4. The pool has not been drained since a new tile and plaster patching job was done somewhere in the area of 1997-2000 so I assume it may well have the high hydantoin levels and associated problems?

5. I would love to convert the pool to chlorine but do to water use restrictions, the cost, and the time of year (the pool is unheated so there is only about a month or so of use time left) it won't happen this year. That leads to the next issue of cost and a perhaps bigger problem plaster condition. I didn't mention it before but the plaster is starting to come off the pool walls in a significant amount. This seems to be occurring a few inches below the tile line and progressing downwards. It's actually flaking off in significant size pieces ( I've seen a few that were 2-3" in diameter) and there is clearly more plaster beginning to separate away. Given this, I'm guessing the pool needs to be replastered sooner rather than later. I assume that replastering the pool would eliminate the need for the washdown and just require flushing the pipes? I also assume that given the plaster condition it would not be worth it to go through the chlorine conversion process before replastering?

6. Assuming they decide to replaster and convert to chlorine rather than fill in the pool, any recommendation on going with a SWCG system versus a traditional chlorine system?

I appreciated the great information and assistance you provide. I'm sure I will have even more questions assuming they decide to go ahead with the repair and conversion next year. Thanks for all your help.

Chris