Yeah. I'm quite unhappy with the Natural Chemistry products, since fail to explain that the effect is strictly temporary . . . and sense they utilize a reducing acid (citric acid) known to produce toxic by-products (trihalomethanes) on reaction with chlorine, instead of ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) which does not.
I need to get a update the stains sticky, but let me quickly outline what happens when you remove stains:
1. Metal is introduced to the pool in soluble form, as dissolved iron or dissolved copper, from well water, iron pipes in city water distribution systems, ionizer, corroding heaters, etc.
2. Chlorine + oxygen in the water oxidize the metals into an insoluble form, creating stains.
3. Reducing agents (Vitamin C, citric acid, oxalic acid, 'Iron Out' (sodium hydrosulfite)) are used to RE-dissolve the iron. Almost all of these products are completely incompatible with chlorine.
4. As the reducing agents are destroyed, solubility is lost, and the metals -- which NEVER left the pool -- re-stain the pool.
To actually REMOVE the metals you have to find a way to get the metal OUT of the water. Simply dissolving it temporarily is GREAT for Natural Chemistry and the pool store, but not so good for you.
To avoid recurrence of the problem you must EITHER eliminate the source -- often not possible -- or develop an on-going process that works for YOUR pool, to periodically remove the stains (re-dissolve the metals) AND to continuously remove the metals that are dissolved.
Products like Stain Free can only temporarily dissolve the metal.
Products, based on phosphonates (HEDP) like "The Pink Stuff" can KEEP the metals dissolved for extended periods.
The CuLator product can SLOWLY remove dissolved metals by ion exchange.
I would recommend the following:
1. Get a K2006 kit. No matter what you do, to control metals you'll need accurate testing, which pool stores WILL NOT provide (most can not!). http://pool9.net/tk/
2. Do a metals bucket test on your FILL water and your POOL water. For various reason, metal testing of the water is not necessarily helpful. http://pool9.net/bucket-metals/
Since you suspect that the pavers are the issue, you may want to soak a paver for a week or so, and then perform a bucket test on THAT water. You'll probably need to pour it through a folded old towel to remove any particulants before you run the test.
3. If you fill with utility water, call your water company, and find out if there are iron distribution pipes between you and the water plant, and especially if there are OLD pipe. Old iron pipes can lead to INTERMITTENT release of iron, when nodular corrosion is disturbed. Also, check the interior of your toilet tanks. The porous china will absorb metals from the water, if present. If your tanks are orange or brown on the interior (not: tan or white) your water supply contains iron, at least on occasion.
4. Abandon the Natural Chemistry products as over-priced and under-performing. When you get ready to address the problem, you can get what you need more cheaply from Amazon.
5. If your budget isn't tight, go ahead and purchase some CuLator packs, along with skimmer socks. Put one in each skimmer, and if you like, hang one in front of the returns. Contrary to the maker's info, these do NOT go bad until they are discolored OR contaminated with goo. If you put them UNDER the skimmer socks, you can prevent most of the contamination.
Keep in mind that these work VERY slowly. Putting them in now may not help noticeably, but will gradually reduce iron in the water and may be sufficient to capture new iron entering the pool.CuLatorWhen you're ready, we can help walk you through the process.
Skimmer sock
Good luck!
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