Murky algae pool
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One of the major problems with pools and algae is that most pool owners don't understand that, with algae, if you're not winning, you're losing. Every time you kill a bit of the algae, without killing it all, you lose any headway you made . . . and may actually make things worse, by developing a highly chlorine resistant mix of algae and bacteria.
So, if you want to deal with the algae, you have to accept that everything you've spent so far was wasted, and that you are now going to do whatever it takes. If you're NOT ready to do that, you might as well give up, cover it, and wait till next year. If you've truly blown your budget, and can't do what's needed, that may be your only real option.
The ugly fact is that cleaning up a single episode of bad algae can cost more than 2 months of normal pool treatment, using the BBB method!
A second problem is that often, by the time pool owners come here, they've already created a chemical hobo soup in their pool. Consequently, we end up a bit nervous about making recommendations, since we're not sure what reactions may occur with the chemicals ALREADY in their pool. If you've used copper algaecides, we have to worry about creating copper stains.
And the third major problem is that pool owners usually don't know enough about their pool's basic chemical status, for us to unhesitatingly make recommendations.
One of the most important ideas that make up the BBB method, is the fact that the CORRECT pool chlorine level is determined by your CYA (stabilizer) level. Unfortunately, CYA testing is the least accurate of all standard pool tests -- and testing with strips, even computer read dealer strips -- is HORRENDOUSLY inaccurate.
Normal chlorine levels should be 1 ppm or 10% of your CYA level, which ever is higher. But to be effective against algae, you have to reach chlorine levels that are at least 20% of your CYA level. This is pretty hard to do when (a) standard pool tests only go to 10 ppm, (b) most pool owners have no real idea what their CYA level is, and (c) accurate chlorine and CYA tests are usually not available from pool dealers.
To understand how all this came about, you need one more fact: pool dealers profit -- enormously -- from inaccurate testing and dosing. They have some incentive to make their test results *seem* accurate, but they have NO incentive to to make sure that their testing *is* accurate. This is why the dealer computers have all the extra decimal precision, ie "your FC level is 1.06 ppm" . . . when the true accuracy of those tests is only to the nearest 0.5 ppm!. This fake accuracy (precision) is most apparent with CYA results, where dealer testing often reports things like "Your CYA level is 96 ppm" when the strip actually can't tell the difference between 96 ppm and 56 ppm!
Bad testing results in over treatment, under treatment followed by over treatment and ineffective treatment followed by more ineffective treatment . . . with dealers selling chemicals every step of the way.
Now, your dealer might be a nice guy: many, many dealers, who benefit from terrible testing, are not actually crooks. They're just ignorant and mis-educated! After all most of the training in the pool industry is developed or paid for by the pool chemical companies!
So . . . where do you want to go from here?
A reasonable estimate is that, with a 25k gal 18x36 pool, you're looking at $350 to find your way home: about $100 for testkits and such, and $250 in additional chemicals. And that will only get you to the point where can begin maintaining your pool correctly for the rest of the season. However, if you follow the BBB method that will likely cost on $50 - $80 per month, depending on what's available to you locally.
*If* you want to fix things here are first steps:
1. Go to Walmart and get 12 gallons of PLAIN 8% household bleach, and a cheapo OTO/phenol red test kit
2. Begin adding 2 gallons of PLAIN 8% household bleach to your pool every evening, late. (If you've used a lot of copper, this may cause copper stains to form)
3. Test pH & chlorine each evening BEFORE adding the bleach, and report results here.
4. Order a K2006 testkit => http://pool9.net/tk/
5. Run your filter 24/7, if you aren't already doing so.
6. Vacuum up all debris on the pool floor. Backwash after doing so.
7. Do NOT use any more algaecides or mystery chemicals.
Best wishes.
Originally Posted by janbogus
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