algae and too low ph

[Danak]

I have struggled for 3 years now with uncontrollable algae and I can't keep my pH balanced it is always too low. Could it be my filter not filtering properly or my pump is too small for the pool.

I have a summer escapes 16'x42" I am currently using the pump that came with the pool. Frankly, I'm tired of absorbing money into this because I always have to buy algaecide, pH increaser, and shock and it never works.

[CarlD]

You need to read up on our BBB system--Bleach, Borax and Baking Soda. Your pool is small so bleach is the easiest way to get your chlorine up. Your algaecide, unless it's Polyquat (Poly something-something 60% and nothing else) is worse than useless. Borax is the cheapest and yet the best way to raise your pH. 20 Mule Team Borax from the supermarket. But without a full set of test results I can only guess what you need to do.

But what you really need is two things: 1) Knowledge, which is free and is freely available her and at our sister site, PoolSolutions.com, where you can read and learn to care for your pools. and 2) A proper test kit. We recommend the Taylor K-2006 or K-2006C kits (same but the C has more chemical--"reagents"). For a cheaper, stop-gap alternative, WalMart sells the HTH 6-way drop test kit, which is pretty good. Guess strips are not recommended.

[Watermom]

The K2006 kit that Carl suggested can not be found locally but you can get it through this link:> http://pool9.net/tk/

What kind of shock have you been using --- cal-hypo or dichlor? Have you been using trichlor pucks? Both dichlor and trichlor have CYA in them. They are also both very acidic and will drive your pH down. I have a hunch that your CYA level is high and you aren't running high enough chlorine levels to keep the algae at bay. We see that scenario frequently here on the forum. You can read more about the CYA and chlorine connection here:> http://pool9.net/cl-cya/

Get a kit and post current readings. Also, tell us exactly what all you have put in your pool meaning ingredients and not just product names like 'algaecide' and 'shock.'

(Until your registration is complete, you won't be able to follow that link or see the rest of the forum while you are logged in so copy the link and paste it in a browser window after you log out.)

Welcome to the Pool Forum!

[PoolDoc]

I have a summer escapes 16'x42".

I have struggled for 3 years now with uncontrollable algae and I can't keep my pH balanced it is always too low. Could it be my filter not filtering properly or my pump is too small for the pool.

All Intex and Summer Escapes pumps and filters are too small for the pool. That doesn't mean it's impossible to run a nice pool with that equipment -- 1,000's here have done so -- but it does mean that it's VERY hard to clean up the water if something does go wrong.

By far the easiest way for you to resolve your problems is to drain, refill, and use the Super Simple Recipe. This is not a long term solution: you can only operate using the SSR for about 2 months. But it will give you a chance to learn to do things right in a relaxed manner.

The only reason NOT to do this, is if water is very expensive or restricted in your location.

But, if you do choose to use the SSR, get your ducks in a row before you drain and refill. Your pool will still have live algae in the pipes and filter even after you drain, so if you aren't ready to treat the water correctly when you refill, it will turn green almost instantly. So, get the chlorine and the better filter cartridges BEFORE you start refilling!

[Danak]

OK I have bought the unicel filters and hth6 way test kit and BBB....here are the test results.....
Chlorine 5
pH 6.8
Alkalinity 80ppm
Hardness 120 ppm
Cya when I read the view tube it is at 30 ppm but I can still see the black dot on the bottom.
Still have very cloud green water. Draining and refilling is not an option.

[PoolDoc]

Ok.

Go to Walmart & get 4 gallons of PLAIN 8% bleach and 2 boxes of 20 Mule Team Borax. (Both are in the detergent section.)

Add borax 1/2 box at a time. Make SURE the pump is running. Premix the borax to dissolve it, or add it slowly via the skimmer. Wait 2 hours. Retest pH.

=> If pH is between 7.2 - 8.0, you're good to go.
=> If pH is above 6.8 but below 7.2, add 1/4 box, wait and retest.
=> If pH still at 6.8, add 1/2 box, wait and retest.

Once your pH is between 7.2 and 8.0, add 1 full gallon of bleach to the pool. Do this after 6pm. Brush the pool completely, including side walls after adding the bleach. Retest in the AM; report results AND pool color and appearance here.

Good luck!

PS: Do you have access to a Sams Club?

[Danak]

Is it OK to keep the solar cover on? Yes I do have a Sam's Club near but no membership. I will report back in the AM. Also do u add the bleach into the skimmer as well?

[PoolDoc]

Add the bleach to the pool, not the skimmer.

You'll need some dichlor to add stabilizer -- once you have the algae all dead.

Most dichlor from Walmart, Costco, Home Depot, etc is diluted and blended. Some of the things added can cause problems. Go to the SSR page (http://pool9.net/ssr/ and use the links there to get 10lbs or less of dichlor. You can check Home Depot and Lowes if you like: any dichlor that contains 56% or more available chlorine is OK. Do NOT get trichlor. You'll have to look at the ingredient names: any name that contains "-dichlor-" anywhere in the name is dichlor; likewise any name that contains "-trichlor-" is trichlor.

[Danak]

OK this AM results are Cl off the charts above 5 and pH 7.5. The water appearance is still cloudy but a lighter green color. At this point I feel a little frustrated.

[PoolDoc]

I'm sorry, but I need to warn you again: clearing a Summer Escapes or Intex pool, once algae has formed, is a SLOW process, more likely to take weeks than days. That's why I encouraged you to drain and refill.

The Unicel cartridges will help, but not make it a speedy process.

Back to the pool: if your pool is STILL green, you need higher chlorine levels. Without knowing your CYA level (for which you have to have either a K2006 or an HTH 6-way drops kit), I can't say how much higher.

I hope you are using an OTO drops kit -- if not, you need to be. Keep raising the chlorine till you get into the OTO orange range. Once the algae finally dies (turns gray), brush the pool completely and HOLD the chlorine level at whatever it is then for several days. Then you can begin letting it drop.

At that point, if you want to add a clarifier it will likely speed the process somewhat. Chem_Geek has done some testing with different products, and has reported that the BioGuard Polysheen and the GLB Clear Blue work best. But, do NOT overdose -- doing so will actually make things WORSE, not better.

Be SURE to rotate your Unicels in and out, after cleaning them properly: http://pool9.net/cart-clean.

You can swim, once the algae is dead. But if the chlorine is still in the orange range, wear old suits: high chlorine will damage them; people are far, far more resistant than swimwear!

And, be patient -- it WILL be a slow and frustrating process.

There is a faster way, using floc, but it's tricky, and requires that you have the equipment to vacuum to waste (out of the pool and on to the ground).

Good luck!