algae and too low ph

[PoolDoc]

Add the bleach to the pool, not the skimmer.

You'll need some dichlor to add stabilizer -- once you have the algae all dead.

Most dichlor from Walmart, Costco, Home Depot, etc is diluted and blended. Some of the things added can cause problems. Go to the SSR page (http://pool9.net/ssr/ and use the links there to get 10lbs or less of dichlor. You can check Home Depot and Lowes if you like: any dichlor that contains 56% or more available chlorine is OK. Do NOT get trichlor. You'll have to look at the ingredient names: any name that contains "-dichlor-" anywhere in the name is dichlor; likewise any name that contains "-trichlor-" is trichlor.

[Danak]

OK this AM results are Cl off the charts above 5 and pH 7.5. The water appearance is still cloudy but a lighter green color. At this point I feel a little frustrated.

[PoolDoc]

I'm sorry, but I need to warn you again: clearing a Summer Escapes or Intex pool, once algae has formed, is a SLOW process, more likely to take weeks than days. That's why I encouraged you to drain and refill.

The Unicel cartridges will help, but not make it a speedy process.

Back to the pool: if your pool is STILL green, you need higher chlorine levels. Without knowing your CYA level (for which you have to have either a K2006 or an HTH 6-way drops kit), I can't say how much higher.

I hope you are using an OTO drops kit -- if not, you need to be. Keep raising the chlorine till you get into the OTO orange range. Once the algae finally dies (turns gray), brush the pool completely and HOLD the chlorine level at whatever it is then for several days. Then you can begin letting it drop.

At that point, if you want to add a clarifier it will likely speed the process somewhat. Chem_Geek has done some testing with different products, and has reported that the BioGuard Polysheen and the GLB Clear Blue work best. But, do NOT overdose -- doing so will actually make things WORSE, not better.

Be SURE to rotate your Unicels in and out, after cleaning them properly: http://pool9.net/cart-clean.

You can swim, once the algae is dead. But if the chlorine is still in the orange range, wear old suits: high chlorine will damage them; people are far, far more resistant than swimwear!

And, be patient -- it WILL be a slow and frustrating process.

There is a faster way, using floc, but it's tricky, and requires that you have the equipment to vacuum to waste (out of the pool and on to the ground).

Good luck!

[Danak]

I have the hth 6 way test kit when I test the CYA it reads 30 but can still see the black dot at the bottom of the test tube. Which makes me feel its too low. So I should add more bleach and at what rate? Another gallon and keep it there until the algae turns gray? Right now when I teat chlorine its dark yellow.

[Watermom]

This link my help. It shows you how to interpret off the scale OTO results:> http://pool9.net/oto-chart/

Also, this chart shows you how high chlorine levels need to be kept based on the CYA reading:> http://pool9.net/cl-cya/

For now, aim for keeping your chlorine between 12-15ppm. In your pool, each cup of 8.25% bleach will add about 1ppm and each quart will add about 4.5ppm. Use those as a reference to help you figure out doses of bleach to add when you test.

[PoolDoc]

These three images, snagged from Taylor's website illustrate correct CYA test interpretation:







Take your CYA reading AFTER you reach the end point.

[Danak]

Just an update. Pool is clearing up still keeping the chlorine high and pH is staying balanced. I did find 99% dichlor granules at GREAT ESCAPES POOLS AND SPAS. Everywhere I asked wasn't sure what I was talking about. How often do I add this and is it in addtion to the bleach I have been adding 2 cups daily until all the algae is gone to keep the chlorine levels up.

[PoolDoc]

Now that you have dichlor, switch over to using it. Only use the bleach to 'shock' if the chlorine gets low, or after a party, etc.