Store test results don't match mine

[lisa's pool]

I bought the Taylor Complete FAS-DPD Pool Water Test Kit K-2006 for my pool season this year. I've learned that you can't always trust the pool store so I finally got the good test kit that you all recommend. The pool store and I have not been matching up really well on my PH, Calcium Hardness and CYA numbers. Today I filled my pool store water bottle. took a sample from it to test my PH and came up with 7.2. Took the same water bottle sample right over to my pool store and they told me my PH was 7.9. They are telling me to put 1.25lbs of PH decreaser into my pool. I also have had huge issues with what they came up with for my calcium hardness. I had been testing this the last few week and had been coming up with 110-120. My water wasn't crystal clear as it usually is so I decided to try and bring up my calcium so I added some calcium increaser. Today it's now at 150. I was happy. The pool stores test result was 249. How is this possible? I added this chemical yesterday night and pulled my water sample at 10:30am today. How is it possible that we are getting such different results? I thought my calcium was a bit low since I had some yellow stains in my skimmer. Also because my pool just isn't as clear as it usually is. I had to do a drain and refill this season at opening when I had a ton of ammonia in my pool making it next to impossible to get a free chlorine reading. The water I put in my pool was very soft. The prior readings from the pool store on my calcium were close to mine....115 125. Can someone please advise me on this? I ended up adding PH increaser since I believe my results are more accurate and didn't want to leave my pool with such low PH. It's now reading 7.3-7.4. My PH was done to 7.0 when I returned from the store tonight. Alkalinity is at 150
CYA 80 (pool store says 98)
pool temp 87 (pool store didn't ask and left it at 80 in their system)

I'm on the bioguard system so they tell me their product works better with much higher Alkalinity numbers (125-150 reccommended) PH reccommended 73-76. I have issues every year at opening with having to dump in a ton of shock to get a free chlorine reading. My CYA creeps up every year to high levels. Started with 35 in May and June 21st at 80 already. Not sure how to prevent this from happening every year. I'll take any help that anyone is willing to give me.

[PoolDoc]

I'll handle your post tomorrow.

But for now, read this => http://pool9.net/bioguard/

And PLEASE save your ALEX printouts -- I'd love to have photos or scans of them. (Or you can mail them to me!)

[PoolDoc]

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The pool store and I have not been matching up really well on my PH, Calcium Hardness and CYA numbers. Today I filled my pool store water bottle. took a sample from it to test my PH and came up with 7.2. Took the same water bottle sample right over to my pool store and they told me my PH was 7.9.

This may be a testing error on their part OR it may be a handling error on your part. Unless you (a) fill the sample bottle 100% full (no air at all -- cap it underwater) and (b) transport it to the store promply without overheaing, TA and pH may change.

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I also have had huge issues with what they came up with for my calcium hardness. I had been testing this the last few week and had been coming up with 110-120. My water wasn't crystal clear as it usually is so I decided to try and bring up my calcium so I added some calcium increaser. Today it's now at 150. I was happy. The pool stores test result was 249. How is this possible?

You answered your own question, here:

I've learned that you can't always trust the pool store . . .

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I added this chemical yesterday night and pulled my water sample at 10:30am today.

Uhm, why would you do that? As you said:

I've learned that you can't always trust the pool store . . .

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How is it possible that we are getting such different results?

Do you really want to get into the technical reasons why pool store testing is so often wrong?

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I had to do a drain and refill this season at opening when I had a ton of ammonia in my pool making it next to impossible to get a free chlorine reading.

I have issues every year at opening with having to dump in a ton of shock to get a free chlorine reading.

You can avoid this next year, by making sure no bacterial or algal growth occurs over the winter. BIofilms (slime layers containing both algae and bacteria eat stabilizer and poop ammonia. Really.

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The water I put in my pool was very soft. The prior readings from the pool store on my calcium were close to mine....115 125. Can someone please advise me on this?

Yes. Here it is:

1. Watch the Taylor videos to make sure you are testing correctly => http://pool9.net/tk-guide/ & http://pool9.net/tk-interfere/

2. Retest your pool water with the K2006. Post the results.

3. Ignore the pool store results. In fact, you should just stop having them test your water. That would be best.

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I'm on the bioguard system so they tell me their product works better with much higher

Did you even read the Bioguard page I linked to? If you haven't you really need to do so!

=> http://pool9.net/bioguard/

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My CYA creeps up every year to high levels. Started with 35 in May and June 21st at 80 already. Not sure how to prevent this from happening every year.

It's very simple:

1. Do not go into that Bioguard store, except for pool parts!

2. Start using EITHER sodium hypochlorite (plain bleach!) or calcium hypochlorite to chlorinate your pool. These do not have stabilizer in them. The chlorine materials you're getting from your favorite Bioguard sales shark are made from dichlor or trichlor and DO have stabilizer in them.

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Summary:

• You can't mix and match the BBB method (what we teach) and the Bioguard method (what the store does).
  
• The BBB method is designed to make pool care as effective, easy and cheap as possible. The Bioguard method is designed to make pool care as expensive (= profitiable as possible). They are about as opposite in approach as possible.
  
• We can give you the information you need to stop being a Bioguard victim; but YOU have to make the choice to quit.

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[lisa's pool]

The reason I haven't made the switch yet is I'm uncertain on the maintenance it would take to keep my pool with chlorine in it using bleach vs chlorine sticks. I don't want to feel attached to my pool everyday all summer long. Currently Bioguard is very easy and with little problems for me. A bit expensive yes, but I buy 90% of my chemicals on Poolgeek.com and usually get free shipping on all my orders. Right now I just keep chlorine sticks in my skimmer and check my chlorine levels every few day. It's very easy and my pool us usually very clear and problem free all season long. What I don't like is opening the following season because my CYA was high at closing. I'd need to drain and refill at closing in order to correct this and have a better opening. This is costly-- $500. I just figured this all out this year and that's why I'm here talking to you guys. I'm considering the switch to the BBB method but need some more information before I do so. I'm also concerned about how to handle my pool when I go on vacation on the BBB Method.

[PoolDoc]

The reason I haven't made the switch yet is I'm uncertain . . . Currently Bioguard is very easy and with little problems for me.

You can't mix and match the BBB method (what we teach) and the Bioguard method (what the store does).

Understandable.

Come back when you make up your mind, if you decide to go 'BBB'.

Good luck.