Question about Aqua Rite SWCG not generating

[elghinbc]

Hi all:
We have an inground pool with an Aqualine Gold SWCG linked to a T15 cell. Everything is hooked up correctly, but this year it is not generating chlorine. All of the diagnostic lights on the mother board are correctly and appropriately lit, the diagnostic menu is operating and reading correctly, and it says it is generating, but it is not. I bought a new T-15 cell as the old one was a few years old, and so far don't seem to be getting anything out of the new one either. I'm thinking there are two possibilities:
1. I have managed to purchase a brand new, defective, cell.
2. The motherboard is screwed up. We did replace the motherboard about 4 years ago, but at that time, the mother board displayed a diagnostic message indicating it had a problem. This one doesn't seem to think it has a problem. Has anyone run into this before--a motherboard which says it's doing everything but isn't doing anything?

At this point, I'm not thrilled about buying another new cell, especially if it isn't the problem to begin with. However, I'm not happy about buying a new motherboard either if it isn't the problem. I'm thinking it must be the board, but wonder if anyone has any insight into this?

Thanks.

Ed

[PoolDoc]

Can you post your diagnostic display results:

Diagnostic Displays
Sequential pushes of the small "diagnostic" button next to the LCD display will cause the Aqua Rite to display the following information:
1. Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
2. Cell voltage (xx.x volts)
3. Cell current (x.xx amps)
4. Desired Output % ("0P" -- "100P" depending on knob position or input from remote pool automation controller)
5. Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter)
6. Product name sent to the pool automation control display ("AL-0" which signifies "Aqua Rite")
7. Software revision level (r1.xx)
8. Chlorinator cell type (t-3, t-5, t-9, t-15)
On the 9th push of the button the display will revert back to the default salt display. Also, if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to the standard salt display.

Also, do you have chemistry test results, including salt test? (Please say how you got them, too. Since you're in Canada, I'm guessing you don't have a K2006. )

[elghinbc]

REadings from the Mother panel:
Salt 3100
Temperature 90
Voltage 25.9 (I note this is a little above range, but below what it says it would be if it weren't generating.......)
Current 6.33 amps
Output 100 (on superchlor right now)
salinity -2800
Product AL-0
Version 1.58
Cell type T-15

The pool is about a 16,000 gallon, the pump running the system is a new Hayward variable speed, paired with a Sta-Rite System 3 cartridge filter and a Heat Siphon Z700 heater. I had thought that perhaps I had my rpm's set too low but there has been no improvement in output with higher rpm's--the flow through the jets is strong. The only thing I see which is off is that the voltage of the cell is reading higher than usual range, but not as high as it is supposed to read when not generating. My previous cell did the same--the new one has been in for about a week.

On my last water reading a couple of days ago, the pH was low at 6.9 (we've had a lot of rain lately) so I have added some UpH. I have a solar cover on the pool.

Thanks

Ed

[elghinbc]

OK, so it does generate, but not much. Last year, the system would maintain its chlorine output nicely set at about 20%. Now, I can get a pool test strip to show purple if I leave it on 100% and run the pool pump at high revs (much higher than the older one) but if I turn the generator down to about 30%, then my chlorine disappears. So, I played with my output dial on the control panel and watched my voltage. If the dial is set to between 5 and 55%, then my voltage is about 31, which is in the range for "not generating". If I set the dial at over 55% or to superchlor, then the voltage suddenly goes down to the 21 range, then after about 5 minutes drifts back up to about 25.6. So, my generator is only kind of generating when it is on "superchlor" or set on high. Given that this is a new cell, I am assuming that the circuit board itself is in the process of dying? Anyone run into this problem before? Or could it be just the control dial and not the mother board itself (they are separate items)? It seems unlikely it would be a defective brand new cell doing the same thing as my old one?

Thx

Ed

[Watermom]

Since it is a new unit, perhaps you should give the manufacturer a call and see if they can advise you?

[elghinbc]

Since it is a new unit, perhaps you should give the manufacturer a call and see if they can advise you?

The cell is a brand new unit, but the control panel is several years old. I tried calling the help line and didn't get anything useful--the usual statements about checking the water chemistry, making sure there is power to the unit (!), making sure the salt is adequate, etc etc, ending with a statement that they're not sure what the problem might be and a suggestion to take the unit in for assessment or ship it to them. None of which of course helps with my lack of chlorination. That's why I thought I'd seek help at this forum, since it's people who actually use and install these units so have some actual experience with them.

Ed

[Reedus]

Do you have readings for CYA? Too little CYA will result in tests showing little to no chlorine. Your cell may be producing, but you might be losing it UV rays

[PoolDoc]

Good point.