Can't figure out why my water is green

[Kcas0772]

Hi Ben,

I completed the two tests above. I will complete steps 2 and 3 shortly and post the results.

Thanks!

Kevin

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Ok, just did steps 2 & 3. The water appeared to be clear in the backwash and the toilet bowl tank. I did just backwash yesterday though. Usually when I backwash the water will be dirty for a few seconds and then run clear.

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[Watermom]

He wanted you to look at the inside of the toilet tank and report on the color of the tank, not the water inside the tank. He is trying to verify if there are any type of metals in your water supply. A stained toilet tank will tell if it does and the type of metal can often be identified by the colors of the stains.

[Kcas0772]

He wanted you to look at the inside of the toilet tank and report on the color of the tank, not the water inside the tank. He is trying to verify if there are any type of metals in your water supply. A stained toilet tank will tell if it does and the type of metal can often be identified by the colors of the stains.

LOL. Thanks Watermom. Ok, I've checked the inside of my two toilet tanks. One seems pretty old (so is the whole bathroom). The inside of the tank is a beige color. At the level where the water sits and below, the color is a darker beige type color. Very dirty inside the bowl, not too surprised. The other toilet is much newer, say about 8-10 years old, based on when I know previous owner redid bathroom. That tank is also a light beige inside. At the level where the water sits and below, the color is a very very slight darker beige color. The toilet tank is overall very clean. I should add that every year, this being the 5th, I fill pool with new hose water. This is the first time I've had this problem. Also, the inside of the tanks haven't seemed to change either. I've been inside the tanks the last couple years changing flanges, etc...

Update - This morning with my 5 drop test kit, the PH came down alot from saturday morning. Today the PH level is around 6.8-7.2, based on color. The chlorine still appears to be a little high, but it's yellow, no longer the dark orange from saturday. (friday night was the last time I shocked pool). The ph on saturday according to the clerk was 8.0, and based on my readings was very dark red. So both the PH and the chlorine have come down. I haven't added anything during this time. No dry acid, chlorine, shock, etc... Overall the pool appears less green, a little more clear. Still, obvious greenish color.

Thanks, again for ALL the help.

Kevin

[PoolDoc]

OK. The colors in your tank verify that you've got iron pipes feeding water your way. I looked up your registration address.

Here's what I'm guessing:

1. You've got some old iron or steel pipes between you and the water plant that serves you.

2. These pipes have nodular or tubercular corrosion like this:



3. Something happened to disturb or break some (or a lot) of the nodules. Common causes include a fire (fire hydrant use), seasonal 'flushing' operations, water main repair or replacement, etc.

4. Nodule collapse released a lot of biologically chelated iron into the downstream water, and in this case, that included your pool.

Now assuming that I'm right so far, there are 2 possibilities:

1. This was a 1x problem (a big fire, for example) OR
2. It's an ongoing problem (utility service)

Either way, you should be able to confirm whether I'm right in my guess or not, by doing the metal bucket test: http://pool9.net/bucket-metal/ . BUT collect your test sample from the POOL, not your fill water. The reason is, your fill water may, or may not, still have the problem. If you get a positive test on the pool, you'll need to followup with a test on the tap water, to see if the problem is continuing.

Use a full 5 or 6 gallon bucket that is COMPLETELY clean and white. There's probably not much iron in your water, even if I'm right, so a 'positive' result will show up as only a few traces of iron oxide (red rust) particles on the bucket bottom.

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[Kcas0772]

Wow, thanks for such a detailed explanation. It may takes me until tomorrow to do the test, I will have to make a trip to the store this evening for some of the things I'll need.

Two questions in the meantime.
First, if it turns out that I do in fact have some metal in the water, but then we do the tap water test and that now comes back fine, is there a chemical that will fairly quickly clear this up, or is it better to drain and refill pool? Also, curious if any of the readings I listed in my first post from the pool store shed any light, like the copper/iron reading or the calcium?

Thanks,
Kevin
.

[PoolDoc]

Using HEPD will not remove the metal from your water, but it *might* temporarily hide it. If you want to try it, this product is 20% HEDP: Do NOT overdose; if the right dose doesn't help, more won't make it better. Also, this product does ultimately add phosphates to your pool water, so you don't want to add more than is needed.

Arch Metal Control @ Amazon

[Kcas0772]

Using HEPD will not remove the metal from your water, but it *might* temporarily hide it. If you want to try it, this product is 20% HEDP: Do NOT overdose; if the right dose doesn't help, more won't make it better. Also, this product does ultimately add phosphates to your pool water, so you don't want to add more than is needed.

Arch Metal Control @ Amazon

So i guess if it turns out the pool has metal in, but tested the tap water shows that the water is now clean, it'd probably be better to just drain and refill