When to admit defeat and start over?

[Watermom]

There is one really critical testing result that is needed or we are not really going to be able to help and that is a CYA reading. Without knowing that, we can't know how high you should be keeping your chlorine.

The test kit that we recommend is the Taylor K2006 or 2006C (better buy). But, it is not available locally. You can get it through this link, though. http://pool9.net/tk/

But, in the meantime, go to Walmart and see if they have the HTH 6-Way drops-based kit (no test strips!) That kit does have a test for CYA.

(As far as laziness on your part, fixing this is actually going to be WAY harder than dumping it and starting over.)

Edit-- What is BM 22?

[SpacemanSpiff]

Ok, we're back from the pool store.
Our numbers are as follows:

FC = 12.05
TC > 15.66 [Their machine limit]
CC = 3.61
pH = 7.8
Hardness = 36
Alk = 104.3
CYA = 29
Copper = 0.1
Iron = 0.2
Borate = 24

Our Walmart is out of the 6-way kit, so a Taylor K2006 is on its way.
BM = 22 was a typo for BR, Borate. Sorry. [M and R are so close on the keyboard... ]

The pool store computer recommendation was to add:

7.5oz of pH Minus
10lb, 4oz Calcium Plus for the hardness
7.2oz Aquabrite Super Shock to bring down the TC
4oz Stabilizer

Talking to the pool store guy, he was basically, "just leave it alone. Don't add anything until the CC gets down around normal [from sun burn off/swimming], and then add Stabilizer.
He said the milkiness should go away in several days or so, and that, while not pretty, was nothing to stop swimming.

Does all this sound about right?

[Watermom]

Does all this sound about right?

Uhh, no.

We can tell from looking at your numbers that they are bogus. There is no testing that can give you reading to the nearest hundredth (two decimal positions). They do that to make it look so official but basically, it is meaningless for the most part. Then, they recommend that you add calcium to a vinyl pool. Why? Vinyl pools don't even need calcium.

Your pH and TA are fine. Leave them alone. Until you get your K2006 and can test yourself so we will really know what your numbers are, just try to maintain chlorine at about 15ppm. You can use the color chart at this link to help you estimate what 15ppm will look like on your tester since it will actually only read to 5ppm. http://pool9.net/oto-chart/
For reference, in your pool, each quart of 8.25% bleach will add about 3ppm of chlorine. Run the pump 24/7 and clean your filter as needed.

You do probably need more stabilizer but how much depends on what your reading is when you test it yourself. 4 oz. of stabilizer will only add about 5ppm of CYA to your pool. Assuming that your CYA is 29, which I doubt, then that would only put you at about 34 which is still too low. Wait to add any for now.

Once the kit arrives, test and post your numbers and someone here will help you decide what to do at that point.

[CarlD]

One thing to add is that if your FC number is correct, your TRUE pH is probably lower than 7.8, which is good. Watermom has it nailed.

[SpacemanSpiff]

Greetings all.
Our Unicel filters and Taylor K-2006 test kit arrived the other day.
I replaced the filter immediately. Didn't have a chance to test until now.

FC = 3.0
CC = .4
pH = 7.1
CYA = ~38

Note: We feel the CYA test is pretty subjective and depends a lot on incident light.
But we agreed it was around 38 when the black dot "disappeared".
We'll gladly accept hints for performing this test.

We haven't added any chemicals since my last post.
The water is still cloudy, but we can now see the squares pattern on the bottom.

Now what?

Um, just re-read Watermom's post about keeping FC ~15.
We failed.

[BigDave]

Not failed, but maybe losing. Get back on it. Persistence is key.

[SpacemanSpiff]

So, given our new numbers above, is there anything else we need do but get the FC to 15 and keep cleaning the filter?