Above Ground thats driving me crazy...

[FalconFixer]

22' diameter, 52" Intex, with a 1 hp pump and 24" sand filter and over $100 in chlorine and its still green. Chlorine level has been 20+ ppm for several days with pump running 24 hours, no change, only deeper shade of green. I am so done with this pool. Any help would be appreciated. Pete

[Watermom]

Do you have a test kit? Test strips don't count. If you don't have a drops-based test kit, go to Walmart and see if they have an HTH 6-way drops kit. If not, get an OTO/Phenol Red kit (yellow and red drops). Also, get several jugs of their generic 8.25% bleach, a bottle of distilled water and a couple of boxes of 20 Mule Team Borax (laundry aisle).

Post some numbers and also tell us exactly what all you have put in the pool meaning ingredients and not just 'shock' or 'chlorine.'
Is the pool green and cloudy or green and clear? What is the source of your fill water (well or city water)?

Repost with requested info and someone here will try and help.

Welcome to the Pool Forum!

[PoolDoc]

Pete, I look up registration addresses as a way of excluding spammers and hackers (who tend to omit addresses or give bogus ones). G-Map shows your pool, so I'm guessing it's been up a while?

The situation you describe is characteristic of pools that have VERY high stabilizer levels. Do you know what your's is? (Unfortunately, test strips are HORRENDOUSLY inaccurate, when it comes to CYA measurements).

You report FC>20. Do you have a K2006 or some other DPD-FAS kit, since that is the ONLY way pool owners can measure those levels?

Anyhow, here's what you need to do:

1. Determine your CYA level.

2a. Adjust your chlorine level to 30% of your CYA level

. . . OR . . .

2b. Dechlorinate and add a strong copper algaecide (This will result in stains and/or green hair, once you re-chlorinate. Also, it won't prevent a recurrence.)

. . . OR . . .

2c. Adjust your chlorine level to 15% of your CYA level (still swimmable) AND use a phosphate remover to take your PO4 to below 125 ppb. You'll need the Taylor kit or the Aquacheck strips.

. . . OR . . .

2d. Drain, refill, start over. (I'm guessing this is a non-option in Phoenix)

Except for option 2b, all others require that you can accurate test and measure CYA and high levels of chlorine. Option 2c ALSO requires that you can measure phosphates. I should point out to you that pool stores BENEFIT from inaccurate testing, since it results in all sort of treatment errors, when then require more treatments to correct. So while a few pool stores do provide accurate testing, no pool store has a financial incentive to do so.

Testkit info => http://pool9.net/tk/

[PoolDoc]

PS: I'm guessing you are an F-16 mechanic?