OK, while we'll need to get more info, for the moment you need to recheck your testing, especially on the pH, then you'll need to lower it.

You can use either dry acid, available in pool stores and pool store sections of K-Mart, WalMart, Costco, etc.

Or you can use Muriatic Acid, available at hardware stores and some pool stores. Do NOT use "Environmentally Safe" or other "green" versions of Muriatic Acid. They are good for other applications, but for pools you need the plain simple stuff.

You have, I estimate, about 3500 gallons, at most. So....wearing long clothes, gloves and eye protection, add about one cup of Muriatic Acid to a 5 gallon bucket of water. Mix it GENTLY with something like a dowel or fence picket, but nor your hand or anything valuable. Pour it into the pool near the return and wait an hour with the filter running. Check the pH again. Repeat until pH is in the 7.2-7.8 range.

Once there, you'll need some chlorine to start. I would start with 1/2 gallon of plain 8.25% bleach, which should push your chlorine to a shock level of 11.5ppm. Just for starting.

Then you'll need a full set of measurements. We recommend the Taylor Technologies K-2006 and K-2006C kits which if you click on the "Get the testkits you need" link in Ben's signature line above, should get you the best price (and a little kickback to Ben to help support the forum). In the meantime, if you have a WalMart near you, get the HTH 6-way drop test kit there (they are the only ones who sell it). It's a good, fast cheap alternative to the K-2006, and, for measuring chlorine will be enough till you get the K-2006.

You CAN post pool store test results as well but don't buy a lot of stuff from them just yet. Or ever.

You will need to add stabilizer, aka Cyanuric, or Isocyanuric Acid, aka CYA. It's like sunscreen for your chlorine. It keep the chlorine from burning off too fast from UV, but also slows down its action so you need more.

That's for starters....This includes following Ben's advice on what to read.