The K2005 kit is missing one very important test that the K2006 has which is the one that allows you to test chlorine readings past 5ppm. But, like I told you in the post above, you can buy the add-on kit for that test which is the K1515. (Link above. Highly unlikely that you'll find it anywhere locally.)

Glad to hear that your CYA is 60 and not 90. Actually, 60 is a very good reading. Here is the dilemma and something that Ben and I have discussing recently. You have a container with 40 unwrapped trichlor tabs. Even though you don't need any more CYA (and those tabs have it in them), it is not a good idea to store unwrapped trichlor from one season to the next. And, you also cannot throw it away. (In fact, that may be illegal.)

So the problem becomes -- what to do with them? Do you have a friend with a pool who you can give them to? If not, it might be best to just go ahead and use them up and just run a high CYA / high chlorine pool. In case you didn't know, the higher your CYA is, the higher the chlorine levels have to be to keep algae at bay and to keep your pool sanitized. You can read more about the CYA and chlorine connection on our Best Guess Chlorine chart either in my signature below or at this link: http://pool9.net/cl-cya/

Now, there is nothing wrong with having a HiC2 pool. In fact one advantage is that it allows you to add chlorine less frequently than those who have low CYA pools. The disadvantage is that if you get algae, it takes higher chlorine levels to kill it.

For now, while you are trying to clear the pool, keep your chlorine at shock level (20ppm) by using bleach. Each evening, test and add enough bleach to get the chlorine back to 20. In a 10K gallon pool, each of the 121-oz. jugs of 8.25% bleach will add about 8ppm of chlorine, and each quart will add 2ppm. You can use those as a reference to help you figure out doses of bleach to add.

Hope this helps.