added 3 gallons last night. This morning 1 TAC 0 FC. I do not have a way to test CYA yet but it was 40 2 days ago. Ph is still 7.2. TA 100
added 3 gallons last night. This morning 1 TAC 0 FC. I do not have a way to test CYA yet but it was 40 2 days ago. Ph is still 7.2. TA 100
28 ft round 14k gallon vinyl AG pool, 1.0HP Hayward pump, 16" sand filter. using hth 6in1 but soon to be a 2006
This is not a new pool, right? Do you have any idea what the CYA level was when you closed the pool last year?
Sometimes, CYA biodegrades over the winter and causes a huge chlorine demand upon opening in the spring. I'm kinda wondering if this could be what is going on with your pool. The only way to fix this is to keep hammering it with bleach until it eliminates the byproducts that are formed. So, keep adding bleach. It may take a lot of bleach but it will eventually hold. If you are home today, go ahead and hit it again. You really don't want to leave your pool all day today with no chlorine in it.
I do not know as i was a bad tester. I am only learning about the difference between FC and CC. I guess I have to keep adding bleach at night to shock level until it holds. When my k2006 kit arrives I should have some more accurate readings. The funny thing is the water is crystal clear.
Thank You
28 ft round 14k gallon vinyl AG pool, 1.0HP Hayward pump, 16" sand filter. using hth 6in1 but soon to be a 2006
You are right that evening is the best time to add bleach but since you basically have none in there, if you can, it would be best to also go ahead and add some now. (Probably need more in the evening, too, to get back to shock level.)
And yes, I know it seems funny that there could be an issue when your water is clear but sometimes you can't see stuff that is going on in there. Clear can be deceiving.
+1
This spring I was dealing with the byproducts off CYA biodegrading over the winter. Just like the OP, my water was clear; there was no visual indication anything was amiss. After about 25 gal. of bleach CL levels finally held. Now I'm enjoying! (Yes, that's me in my pic)![]()
22'x40' Grecian Lazy L 20K gal IG vinyl pool; Aqua Rite SWCG T15 cell; Hayward Pro Grid 6020 DE filter; Hayward Superpump 1hp pump; 12 hrs; Taylor K-2006; city; PF:6
Ironically, what can happen if you have ammonia from biodegraded CYA, is that you end up with monochloramine in your pool. This is the same algaecide that you're trying to produce when you use "Yellow Out", "Mustard Master" or similar products.
Monochloramine is a VERY good algaecide, better than plain chlorine. The problem is that it's a fairly good people-cide! It doesn't actually kill people, but it will run them out the pool with burning eyes and itching or red skin!
Fortunately, it breaks down pretty quickly as you add MORE chlorine, but during the brief periods when it's present, it can do a number on the algae.
PoolDoc / Ben
Added another 3 gallons of bleach last night. This morning it is gone again.
FC=0
TAC=.5
Alk=90
ph=7.2
CYA=40
Question= bleach is getting expensive as it is up to 2.50 or so per gallon. is 63% calcium hypochloride as effective as 8.25% sodium hypochloride? Is 1 ilb bag equivalent to 1 gallon of 8.25% bleach?
Thanks
28 ft round 14k gallon vinyl AG pool, 1.0HP Hayward pump, 16" sand filter. using hth 6in1 but soon to be a 2006
I went to ocean state job lot. they have liquid mega shock 12.5% sod cl for 2.99 a gallon. Bought 2 cases. It is cheaper than bleach right now. I added 2 last night. Levels high. woke up and back to nothing again.
TAC=.5
FC=0
CYA=40
TA=100
PH=7.2
calcium=160
28 ft round 14k gallon vinyl AG pool, 1.0HP Hayward pump, 16" sand filter. using hth 6in1 but soon to be a 2006
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