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  1. #1
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    Default Re: New here

    Thanks for the reply.

    Using soda ash for two reasons. 1st, I figured the TA would drop down as the CYA would dissolve (read borax doesn't effect TA). 2nd, the pool store and Walmart are totally opposite directions from my house. I also wanted pick up more liq chlorine and 2oz bottles of testing chems.

    CC quotes above likely off by a decimal point (I think).

    Ran the filter all night. Looks better but still clearing. It's pouring rain right now. So, I'll take more readings later.

    Thanks again,
    Splash

  2. #2
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    Default Re: New here

    I don't think the CC numbers are due to being off by a decimal point. Even a CC reading of .52 or .26 don't make sense or if you go the other way to 52 or 26 either.

    To clarify how to run the CC test,
    You use the same sample as you have been using to test for FC. You add 5 drops of R-0003. If the sample turns pink, you have some CC. You then add drops of R-0871, one drop at a time, just as before, swirling to mix after each drop, until the sample turns clear. Then, multiply the number of drops by 0.5 (if you used a 10mL water sample) or by 0.2 (if you used a 25 mL water sample.) That would give you your CC reading.

    (IF the sample does NOT turn pink, then your CC reading is 0 which is ideal!)

    (By the way, best to use the 10ml water sample as that will conserve your reagents.)

  3. #3
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    Default Re: New here

    Thanks for tips. I'll double check my procedures. I'm not all that worried about CC as the FC drop per day is only about 0.5.

    Keeping the pH in range has been a bit more of a challenge as I'm trying to raise the CYA. I've noticed the test results tend to go further than my expectations when adding chems. This makes me think I'm over estimating the water volume in the pool. The shape of the pool angles inward below 3 ft. The deepest part is only about 10 to 12 ft. sq. So, I think I'll adjust my calculations.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: New here

    Sounds like you precipitated a bunch of calcium carbonate.

    Is there a reason you haven't been reporting calcium hardness levels? In this case, that's a pretty important reading.

    Regardless -- if your water is clear yet, boost the chlorine and then turn the pump off overnight. If the calcium settles, try carefully vacuuming it up -- but make sure it doesn't shoot back into the pool. If you have a sand filter, you can add DE powder to the skimmer, before vacuuming. (If the DE shoots out -- your filter needs work!)

    Anyhow, if the filter won't catch, vacuum to waste. If the pool gets low (watch the skimmer!), stop vacuuming, turn the pump back on, refill the pool (over fill if needed) and then try again later.

    . . . membership updated.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: New here

    Pool is clear now. Just a couple days of brushing the bottom and sides, 24/7 pump, and running the robot did the trick. pH measured 7.6 this morning and seems to have stabilized. I last tested the CH about 5 days ago reading 170. Since that was in line, I wasn't worried considering I have a vinyl liner. I'll test it again next time.

    Thanks for the membership bump. This forum has helped greatly.

    Splash
    19.5k gal, 16x32 vinyl liner, sand filter, 1hp single speed pump, K-2006 test kit. PF=6

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    Default Re: New here

    Great!

    You don't need to test CH again. Unless you're using cal hypo to chlorinate, it won't rise.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: New here

    Well that's cool But, I just tested it anyway. .

    FC 3.5
    CC 0.5
    pH 7.2
    TA 180
    CH 160
    CYA 30(ish)

    Lesson learned with all this is to add doses of chems in small increments, let that take effect and then retest before adding more.
    19.5k gal, 16x32 vinyl liner, sand filter, 1hp single speed pump, K-2006 test kit. PF=6

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