Pool Pilot Digital 220 unit - Warning Low Amps - Cell? and Bad Temp Sense

[pacsman]

Thanks for that info. From what I am reading it appears I have been using my system incorrectly and will be making some changes based on above feedback.

[Poolsean]

Sorry to jump in so late, but the information provided in the Original post indicates a warn out cell. Normally the display will show either CHECK/CLEAN CELL or LOW AMPS/CELL?
However, the high volts and lower amps is indicative of a depleted cell, low salt (and the displayed salt needs to be calibrated), or operation during cold water conditions with low salt levels. I would recommended having your water tested to verify the salinity first.
If you remove the cell, inspect for any scale formation on the blades. While you have it out, do the outer blades appear to be worn down along the leading edge of the blades? This is a sign of cell depletion.

[PoolDoc]

Thanks, Sean.

[pacsman]

New information, I replaced the tri-sensor and the cell but now have a different message.
I went with the RC-52 (SC-60) which is the largest my unit will accept. Purchased from saltpoolguys.com.
The tri-sensor was bad and the new one is reporting a temp of 82 degrees which is what the thermometer in the pool is reading.
Salt is reported at 3300ppm which is what the old sensor reported and the same as the pool store measured.
I set the control unit back to power level 1 and changed the cell type to SC-60.
I still have a flashing red light on the control unit and the message now reads "Warning check/clean cell?"
The cell is clean and i dont see anything on any of the blades, all 15 are the same length, Some appear to be newer than others so not sure if the cell may be bad?
when testing the unit I have 17 volts and 2.9 Amps reported on the display.
When i turn the unit on initially, once it runs throught its tests, the purifier states 60% but within about 5 seconds that changes to 48%.
The unit is on and states purifier on 48%

Any thoughts on what could be causing the check/clean cell message?

[BigDave]

I noticed on the first post in this thread that a CYA of 0 is reported. Is that accurate? My understanding is that most SWCG manufacturers recommend a CYA level around 60. I would assume that a SWCG would have a hard time keeping up with the chlorine lost to sunlight.

[pacsman]

I connected with Josh from the saltpoolguys.com site, where I purchased the new cell and tri sensor, concerning the new message I am getting.

After some additional troubleshooting and sharing some pictures of my controller, it appears I have a bad board, specifically 4 of the 6 capacitors are shot and it appears one of the computer chips may have overheated as well.

The board alone is $400+ and the whole controller unit is 600+ and comes with a new cell cable and a two year warranty so I elected to do the whole unit. Awaiting arrival of the unit, should be here Monday, Tuesday at the latest.

At that point I will essentially have a new system and just need to get it back operational. Now if I can just keep the pool stable until I can get this installed the grandbaby can get back in the swim mode.

[PoolDoc]

Sorry for the problems you're having.

But I have question: do you know whether the board problems were caused by a voltage surge?

The reason I ask, we're seeing a number of VS pumps dying because of surges, possibly from thunderstorms. Now that Intermatic has marketed a pool warranted surge protector, I've been recommending that pool owners with VS pumps install one. I hadn't really thought about whether SWCG might also need protection. I would guess that the transformer and power supply might offer protection not present in a VS pump - but I'm only guessing.

So . . . back to my question: do you have any idea what caused the board failure?

Thanks!

[Watermom]

You can keep the pool stable by using bleach until you get your unit up and running. For reference to help you figure out how much to add, in a 28K gallon pool, each 121-oz. jug of Walmart's generic 8.25% bleach will add about 2.8ppm of chlorine to the pool. I don't know what your CYA reading is but if you look at the chart at this link, it will tell you what range you need to keep your chlorine in based on that reading and you can dose with bleach accordingly.

http://pool9.net/cl-cya/