1. Algae is either dead, dying, or growing. Green algae is growing. Add 5 gallons of bleach EACH evening till the algae is ALL gone / brown. Brush the pool after each addition.

2. Meanwhile, read http://pool9.net/alk-step/ . Assuming that the ColorQ is accurate -- and I can't really assume that -- you need to lower your TA. Aerate to do so; your pH will rise. How much lower depends on whether you have a vinyl or concrete pool. Do not add any more soda ash.

3. Your CYA is too low, but it would be better to raise it AFTER the algae is dead. A good way to do so is use dichlor, which adds 9 ppm of CYA for every 10 ppm of chlorine added. See http://pool9.net/sams-dichlor50/

4. Do not add any other chemicals till the algae is dead, the pool is clean, and the TA is more reasonable.

5. We have plenty of evidence that electronic readers are generally very inaccurate and untrustworthy. However, I did some checking on the ColorQ Pro and would acknowledge it's better than most . . . but it's very sensitive to temperatures and wait periods (covered in the instructions). If you do not observe those requirements, you can get very inaccurate results. If you do follow the instructions, the chlorine test up to 5 ppm, the pH, test and the TA test are probably as accurate as the K2006. The calcium test has problems, and the stabilizer test is apparently erratic. The most comprehensive discussion I could find is here:
http://www.poolgeniusnetwork.com/for...photometer-are

6. You need to get a cheap OTO/phenol red kit, since you can't test chlorine accurately above 5 ppm with the ColorQ, and above 10 ppm, the sample may bleach out and read low or even zero.