Newbie 14' round intex

[PoolDoc]

. . . membership updated.

WaterMom wouldn't have known it, but because I keep up with the Kem-Tech line, I can tell you that if Target is selling EXACTLY the product pictures in the link you provide, that would be fine. But, it's trichlor, not dichlor, so you'd have to buy a floater to put the tabs in.

If you do go to Target, check the label when you get there and make sure it shows at least 89% available chlorine. If it does, they are selling the correct product.

If you go to Sams, this is what you want: http://pool9.net/sams-dichlor24/

. . . membership updated.

[nymxracer]

Thanks Ben. I actually have everything listed except muriatic acid. I even have the 2006 test kit so I'm ready to go. My current readings are.....
Chlorine 5
Brom 10
Ph 7.2-7.4
Alk 40
Hard 90 ( it didn't turn red after the first 5 drops so I'm not sure if this test is accurate)
Cya 40 ( honestly I could still see the black dot at the bottom of the test tube so im not sure if this is accurate)

I was going to add 1/2 cup dose of dichlor and borax this evening as it seems like the 3/4 dose was too much for the 4k gallons. I would love to hear if I'm on track or did I derail and I just don't know it yet? Thanks again for the help and setting up this awesome site. Now if I could only figure out a way to cure my color blindness.

[PoolDoc]

+ You're fine.

+ Watch the K2006 videos, especially the hardness and CYA videos:
http://pool9.net/tk-guide/
http://pool9.net/tk-interfere/

+ Don't think about bromine -- ignore any bromine results or calculations.

+ On an Intex, hardness doesn't matter, unless it's too high: your hardness is not too high.

+ You don't have any CYA, unless you have ALREADY used some dichlor or trichlor, or added stabilizer directly. (Watch the videos!)

+ All the tests, except the pH test, look for a major color change, rather than reading a tint. You *can* get a pH meter, if you really need one:
http://pool9.net/ph-meter/

+ Relax! If the water's fairly clear and not green, and the sides aren't slippery/slimy (an early sign of algae) -- you'll be OK.

[nymxracer]

Ok, cool. My water is crystal clear and no signs of anything slippery. How long do I continue to dose at night with Dichlor and borax? Is it just for the first 7 days?

[PoolDoc]

I need to edit that page -- but here are the two lines that describe what you do AFTER start-up:

+ At the first sign or algae, or slippery sides of the pool (pre-algae) add 4 doses of bleach in the evening, IN ADDITION to your regular dichlor dose.

+ Test the chlorine and pH each morning; if chlorine is below 2 ppm, add 1/2 dose of dichlor; if the pH is below 7.0, add 4 doses of borax. If the pH is above 8.0, skip borax additions till it goes below 7.4.

[nymxracer]

Ok, got it. Thanks again for all the help.

[PoolDoc]

You're welcome.

[Pappy]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SAVOGRAN-...0622/202935862
or equivalent is what you want. Real Trisodium Phosphate. NOT "safe" or "phosphate-free" or "TSP Substitute".

[nymxracer]

Cool, thanks!

[PoolDoc]

Did you get the Filbur cartridges from Amazon? Were they sold by "Filters Now"? Could you verify that they were ACTUAL Filbur cartridges?