Looking for direction

[mrscabrera]

Ok...new results for this morning. Yesterday before I posted here, I added 6lbs of Alkalinity up, and while I was at work last night, my son added the 8 cups of Breakout 35 the pool store had recommended. I wasn't going to do that...was going to do bleach this morning instead. But it's been done. The pool looks much better this morning and I am able to see the main drains, though we still have cloudiness and the pool is now blue. Today's readings:

FC: 0.54
TC: 1.41
CC: 0.87
pH 7.2 (YAY!)
Hardness: 580
Alk: 175.2
CYA: 126 (This printout says the recommended range for their test kit is 30-150...seems awful high)
Copper: 0.4
Iron: 0.2
Phosphate: 2500
TDS: 1723

What was recommended based on these results if to add 8 cups of non-chlorine shock now, and then tonight, an additional 6 cups of Breakout 35.

What can I do OTHER than adding more pool store chemicals?

I found a decent deal on bleach at Sams Club and was gonna go stock up today.

I took a pic of the label from the new cartridge, but it won't let me upload images for some reason.
It is a 190 sq ft Hayward CX-1900RE. Says "compares to C-8420)

OH....also. The test kit I currently have is Pentair Pool and Spa test kit (78 hour tests for chlorine, ph, acid demand, alkalinity). Tests up to 3ppm.

Is this kit sufficient for what I need immediately or do I need to go get something else?

(Note by moderator: 3 posts waiting in the queue were combined into this one.)

[Watermom]

I'm going to answer your last question first. Yes, you must get a better kit especially since you have such high CYA. Take a look at the Best Guess Chlorine Chart in my signature below. You'll see that pools with high CYA have to run higher than normal chlorine levels and your kit isn't going to be able to measure high enough. Order the Taylor K2006 or 2006C (better buy) from the test kit link below. Otherwise, you won't have the capacity to measure your chlorine to the levels you are going to need.

Stay out of the pool store. They are selling you a bunch of expensive stuff you don't need. Tell your son not to add any more stuff.

Your calcium hardness and TA are REALLY high. If you don't watch it, you are going to end up with a pool that looks like milk. No more cal-hypo, calcium or baking soda!

Since you have had a chlorine level below the minimum needed based on your CYA level (per Best Guess chart), I'd suggest shocking the pool up to 25ppm in case you are on the edge of an algae bloom. In your pool, each gallon of 8.25% bleach will add just about 7ppm of chlorine. Add enough to get to 25ppm.

Order the kit ASAP. You're gonna need it.

[Watermom]

I've asked Ben to jump back in on this thread since you have so many issues on your hands. High CYA and TA. Super high CH. Etc.

[PoolDoc]

1. Stop adding ANYTHING but bleach.

2. Stop going to that pool store; neither their testing nor their recommendations are trustworthy. Remember, THEIR ADVICE put you in this situation. And without going into the technicalities, I can tell simply by looking at the numbers that their testing is bogus. Remember, pools stores make money when they sell chemicals, NOT when they solve problems. If they actually solved your problem, they'd sell less chemicals!

3. Go to Walmart or equivalent and get more STORE brand 8% bleach. Clorox from Sams is OK, since they only sell plain bleach (I think), but Walmart sells 'flavored' Clorox, which you do NOT want!

4. While at Walmart get a cheap OTO/phenol red drops test kit. Use it when you get home, and report results.

5. Order a K2006 kit ASAP -- try to get one from Amazon, if they have them. If not pick Amato Ind as a 3rd party seller. The 2 oz size is a better deal (K2006C). http://pool9.net/testkits

6. Really. Do NOT put any chemicals in, except bleach. Keep adding doses till you get a dark yellow OTO result.

7. Do NOT get a "compares to" cartridge: the way they 'compare' not a good way! Get a Unicel, Filbur or Hayward OEM, when you replace, and make SURE the cartridge itself is labeled Unicel, Filbur or Hayward! I don't know if you need a new cartridge, but here are Amazon links:

Cartridges for a Hayward CX1900RE

Unicel C-8420 Replacement Filter
Filbur FC-1211 Antimicrobial Replacement Filter Cartridge

[mrscabrera]

Ok. I'm back from Sams/Walmart. I didn't put in any chemicals today....just did a good vac. I bought 6 gallons of 8.25% bleach, and an OTO test kit. Ph is reading 7.2 and chlorine is barely registering. Looks like about 0.5
I'm going to put the bleach in now. How long should I wait to retest?

And does water temp matter? It's still a bit chilly.

[PoolDoc]

Add bleach in 2 gallon increments; allow 2 hours of pump operation before retesting.

Water temp doesn't matter . . . unless you're planning to swim today!

[mrscabrera]

Super. Thanks! I will report back this evening with new results.

PS..as an aside, I asked at the pool store specifically "Won't doing this raise my CYA even higher?" I was told the trichlor will not raise it. Bull Hockey. Aaaannnd DONE. I was already done before, but that just was the icing on top.